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Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A1 [details]
FA: Cameron Burns, Jon Butler, 22 April 1995
Page Views: 1,526
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 26, 2007

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Description 

Start the route at the saddle between the tower and the rim. Walk out on a slabby ledge on the east side of the tower until you reach an obvious crack. There is a move with fall potential to reach the crack.
Once in the crack, climb past loose rock to a block that does not seem like it should be solid. Using the block, aid up past a bad seam to a good crack. Continue to a large ledge.

At this ledge, you can put in a belay or continue to the summit via a bolt ladder.
The bolt ladder consists of 5 empty angle holes, 1 loose bolt, and 2 good bolts (one in the middle and one at the top). The first empty angle hole should be easily skipped if you are not short.

Descent-Rappel down the northeast face. One full 60m will be just enough if you stop on the slabby ledge that you start on. If you rappel to the ground, it will add on 50' and you will obviously need another rope.

There is an opportunity for a direct start to this line. It will add on 50' and will not require the slabby traverse.

Location 

To find Twelve Pack of Tube Socks, walk about a mile past the Liberty Cap cragging area up Ute Canyon, Walmart Tower is obvious just before Safeway Spire. Start on the saddle between Walmart and the rim wall.

Protection 

Standard clean rack, a few angles for the holes, tie offs, and hangers. One full 60 meter rope to get down.


Comments on Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks Add Comment
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By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 14, 2008

"5 empty angle holes, 1 loose bolt, and 2 good bolts (one in the middle and one at the top"

What the----?

Who stole those?

Goddamned desert thieves......gotta love 'em.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 16, 2008

Cam- when you left were all the holes filled? What about on Jolly?
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 18, 2008

Ben,
Yes, sadly we didn't have enough stuff to equip those two properly and never got back to them. Lame on our part. I was kidding about thieves. But the posts about Safeway are a bit disturbing. I'm pretty sure Jon and I used only those pain-in-the-butt five-piece Rawls, which can be really tricky to place. There are some other types of bolts in the pictures posted, so not sure what's going on there.....
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 18, 2008

All the Rawls were bomber. It looked like a later party had placed more bolts, all of which were not bomber.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
May 1, 2008

Wow!
That's really interesting. So it's been retrobolted with worse-than-the-original bolts? Madness!
I remember hanging in crazy positions pounding on a hand drill and cursing those Rawls. They took forever to place. Glad they're still there and still good, but then again they should be.
By Airbiscuit
May 29, 2008

Where is this tower in relation to Safeway Spire and the Angular Motion Buttress?
By Ben Kiessel
Jul 1, 2008

Walmart Tower is just before Safeway Spire on the right side of the canyon up on the hill side. I don't know where Angular Motion Buttress is.
By Jeremy Cleaveland
From: Lake City, CO
Dec 1, 2008

Just climbed Walmart Tower 11/30/08, a bit awkward in spots, but a good line. Was going to short fix at the ledge, but with only one drilled angle there just did it in one pitch. There were no fixed drilled angles (except in the rap anchor), there was still a loose bolt for the second move of the bolt ladder. Nice tower!