The Wallowas are more famous for backpack trips and its beautiful alpine lakes. With a little imagination, the rock climbing could (in the distant future) be a popular climbing area. With Sacajawea Peak as the high point (9880), the rock in these mountains is Yosemite like granite with some basalt and limestone/marble walls. Many of the granite walls range from 100 feet to 1,000 + foot walls, rare for Oregon. With very few known existing routes, some good places to explore are Eagle Cap, Main Eagle Creek, Pine Lakes, the Matterhorn, Cusick Mountain, Hawkins Pass area, and the Blue Hole for deep water bouldering. The Mountains are in a wilderness area so no drills (and preferably no bolts). Great 1st ascent adventure climbing! Season is only July-September because of the 20 + feet of snow every year!
Trailheads are located in Joseph 1 hour east of La Gande, and Halfway 1 hour East of Baker City.
Lots of moderate climbing, with three prime pitches of 5.9 hand cracks.The route has a few nice ledges on it, and climbs a buttress just east of the main south facing headwall. Once you reach the summit of the route, you can easily scramble across the ridge to the main head-wall summit. ...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
i put up some routes in the eagle caps and all over NE oregon mostly in the 80's. there is a small but prolific group of climbers, mostly out of La Grande, but range from Baker City to Walla Walla that have been involved in routes thoughout the area. Steve Brown, Mark Hauter are still in the area and still active. We had a log for new routes at the outdoor program at the college in La Grande. i'm not sure is it still exists, but you could start there. we didn't write a lot down, mostly because we wanted to keep the place on the down low. the climbing in NE oregon is extensive, diverse and quality. places like High Valley, Spring Mtn, Elgin Wall, Hells Canyon, Wallowa Lake Greenstone, Eagle Caps, the Elkhorn Range all provide options and opportunities for the adventurous climber.
I'm planing to be on camp at spring mtn for bear season no later than friday. In high hopes of cleaning up a possibile boulder route I saw a few years back. That is, if it hasn't already been discovered. I shall try my best to obtain the angled pics needed so that the people can generalize and try to relate a routes difficulty by its image. Should have them ready to be posted next week,,that is if "mt.project inc" deems them worthy. I'm not sure where or how you heard of blue hole kyle, Most who respectfully know where its at try and keep it hiddin to rest who cant respect its natural place. ; ) But I will tell you a tough little 3 mile hike up hill from its nearest parking. Tas