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Wallface

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Case Route T 
Diagonal, The T 
Free Ride T 
Lewis Elijah T 
Mission to Mars S 
No Man's a Pilot T 
Out with the boys again T 
Pay As You Go T 
Prelude to Gravity T 

Wallface Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,600'
Location: 44.137, -74.035 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,792
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: proto on May 28, 2009
Forecast:
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Climbers on Free Ride(5.11a) 9-5-09 If this is yo...

Description 

Wallface is the largest and tallest cliff of NY state: almost 800' of very steep rock. With its quite long access from the end of the road and rather undefined access to the base of the cliff, Wallface definitely has an alpine dimension. Don't be scared though, climbing this huge cliff is really very interesting and enjoyable!

Getting There 

Park at the abandoned village of Upper Works, near Henderson lake. Follow the path (often very muddy ...) towards Indian Pass. You can go up to Summit Rock to have a look at the cliff and chose a line of access in the bush from there. Another option is to leave the path just before it crosses the stream for the last time and follow some cairns to the base of the cliff. This latter option is much faster and very convenient but won't give you the opportunity to have a general look at the cliff .

Budget about 3h from the car to the base of the cliff if you go for the quick option. Add at least 30 minutes if you stop by summit rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wallface

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wallface:
Case Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'   
Out with the boys again   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
The Diagonal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 7 pitches, 860'   
Free Ride   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 735'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wallface

Featured Route For Wallface
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9...

Free Ride 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Wallface
Awesome hard route up clean, good rock. Full disclaimer: I only climbed to the top of the 4th pitch; the pitches above were wet and there was a Peregrine Nest on the 5th pitch ledge. If someone who has done the full route wants to take over this page, feel free. I just wanted to add it because itÂ’s such an awesome route.Pitch 1. 11a 70ft. -Climb up the right facing corner with 10a-ish stemming until you can clip the bolt. Bust left on crimps (crux) until you can pull around the arete....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Wallface Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wallface traverse to final pitches of Diagonal wit...
BETA PHOTO: Wallface traverse to final pitches of Diagonal wit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wallface
Wallface
Rock Climbing Photo: Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.
Wallface from the summit of Algonquin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wallface from Algonquin in October
Wallface from Algonquin in October
Rock Climbing Photo: Sir Wallface.
Sir Wallface.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unique view of Wallface. You can see the finishing...
BETA PHOTO: Unique view of Wallface. You can see the finishing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Out with the Boys Again and Prelude to Gravity.
BETA PHOTO: Out with the Boys Again and Prelude to Gravity.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sir Wallface.
Sir Wallface.

Comments on Wallface Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2016
By MojoMonkey
May 22, 2012
Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface?
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 23, 2012
Best weather with no bugs: fall (late August through October). Wallface has BAD black flies, often worse than other cliffs for some reason.

Sometimes you can lose the bugs as you get higher. Other times they get worse as you climb higher. Pray for wind.
By Don Ford
Oct 13, 2012
In bug season wear long sleeve shirt and long pants, tuck pants in socks if you can. DEET soaked bandana under helmet that you can rub on face and neck. I wore above outfit and only suffered bites on hands and neck.partner wore tank top and shorts. His legs were covered with blood from his knees to his ankles. he got sick later that night from black fly saliva,puked for 2hrs at wallface lean-to. I HAD TO DRINK THE YUKON JACK ALONE.
By Andrew Jylkka
From: Columbus, OH
Feb 13, 2013
What's the bug situation in March?
By Sickler
From: Rochester, NY
May 19, 2013
I just got back from a couple days at Wallface. The black flies were just starting to come out. It was beautiful up there.
By Mike McLean
Jul 15, 2013
Mr. Lawyer speaks the truth. Black flies were HORRIBLE. We were swallowing them on the rappels at 5 pm. Never seen it quite that bad.
By Hans LaCasse
From: Canaan, New Hampshire
Jan 23, 2016
Any Aid lines at Wall face? Looks pretty steep in some places.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jan 24, 2016
Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a.
By topropetoughguy123
Jun 26, 2016
Is there a good way to reach the farther north climbs after diagonal by going up the diagonal approach? We just bushwhacked for about an hour, but found absolutely no suitable trails along the base of the cliff, despite the obvious line shown in ADK rock. I guess you just have to hug the cliff and keep trudging?

Just a few notes that may save dumb people like myself some time-(lol)
-When going for the diagonal approach, the "maze of boulders" is around a 1/4 mile, which the guidebook doesn't mention. If you are on a drainage without cairns, you are definitely in the wrong spot.
-The "not well marked" trail that splits off from the drainage is just that. It is about 150ft below where the drainage turns into a slabby section, not right at the base as the book will have you think. Either way, just bushwhack right and you'll hit the trail eventually.

-bugs are out mid june for sure :)

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