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Wallface, Daks Questions
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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Just to add my 2 cents: me and a friend went to go check out Wallface in late Fall once, and pretty big daggers were falling ALL over the Diagonal ramp, which was pretty disconcerting. We ended up just watching the show from Summit Rock, and walking back to the car. Maybe the time to go, if you want to in winter, is in the DEAD of winter when things aren't so...active.

The Diagonal can be easily done in an average length day by a strong party, but I would love to camp on one of the many huge ledges encountered on the climb, as someone else here on MP did and posted pictures of, looks sick!

Eric G: What was the new route? That's awesome...sounds like an amazing time back there for 5 days climbing and swillin whiskey with friends. That's what the 'Dacks are all about baby!

Stoned Master: I think I remember reading that the Case Route has like, one obligatory move of 5.5 or something like that, and the rest is pretty easy bushy scrambling. There is a video of a winter attempt on the Case:


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Thanks Ben! I appreciate it man.


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

Ben, we named the new 3-pitch route "Faffing with the Boys" because it is a variation of Out with the Boys or whatever that fun 5.7 over on the left flank of the cliff is called. And because much faffing occured--a close partner of mine is the king of faffing, and it drives me crazy.

It's not recorded in any way, nor do we even care--it's a zero star line, and it protects terribly. No need to ruin the adventure if someone else happens to venture onto our shitty climb!

I have a memorable recollection of running it way out on a prayer to a large flake, placing a nut behind it and letting out a sigh of relief, tugging on the nut lightly and watching the flake explode and launch off the cliff. Ah, good times!


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Eric G. wrote:
Ben, we named the new 3-pitch route "Faffing with the Boys" because it is a variation of Out with the Boys or whatever that fun 5.7 over on the left flank of the cliff is called. And because much faffing occured--a close partner of mine is the king of faffing, and it drives me crazy. It's not recorded in any way, nor do we even care--it's a zero star line, and it protects terribly. No need to ruin the adventure if someone else happens to venture onto our shitty climb! I have a memorable recollection of running it way out on a prayer to a large flake, placing a nut behind it and letting out a sigh of relief, tugging on the nut lightly and watching the flake explode and launch off the cliff. Ah, good times!



I love it! I even learned a new term: faffing


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Yeah, what is `faffing`?


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 14, 2013
Stoked...

The Stoned Master wrote:
Yeah, what is `faffing`?


Is it similar to flathering??


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

From Websters:

Faffing: (verb) the act of committing faff, or wasting time fiddling, organizing, re-racking, etc., at a belay or otherwise, which slows down the party.

Small amounts of faff are notable for their ability to cumulatively equal large amounts of faff throughout a big day.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Otherwise known as the D.A.F. or Dicking Around Factor.


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

An excellent example of faffing:

What I am currently doing on MP.com instead of the massive pile of work in front of me.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 14, 2013
Rumney

The Stoned Master wrote:
Average time: when is wallface usually clear of ice and (as safe as possible, think ice and constant wet rock) when is the earliest it can be free climbed?


No experience with the case route...

It's tough to pinpoint thaws in the high peaks. I've hiked bare boot up trails to the summit of some of the 4,000 footers in early May, and had to break trail through a good snow base up lesser mountains in late April. Generally, by Memorial day most snow is gone, but the whole month of May is variable as to when the thaw happens. Plus, if there's a rapid thaw or rains during the thaw it can raise water levels to the point crossings are impossible. The trail into Wallface is notoriously crappy/wet even in normal conditions, and if I recall correctly there's a few water crossings that could be challenging during the thaw or times of heavy runoff.

Plan ahead and have a good Plan B so you're not wasting gas. Plenty of good climbing off the beaten path that's got camping possibilities.

Solo is tough. I feel its almost always a bad idea but understand people's desire to climb and accept the risks. If you're looking for easy solo stuff Wallface probably isn't your best destination crag. If no one bites on Wallface, save it for another time and try to get some belays lined up elsehwere in the Park, or find other places where more numerous easy climbs for soloing exist.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Don't let the negativity get your goat: according to ADK Rock, John Case routinely soloed this route and has used it as a downclimb. He climbed it first in 1933. I'd say if you're going to solo something big and easy, this is it for the 'Dacks. You'll get away from people, scramble to your heart's content, and have a good time.

Never done Case Route, but I'd say it's a good candidate for a fun easy solo


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Also not really a climb (but either is the Case Route, it seems...more of a rocky scramble with one or two 5th class moves), but a great time alone would be Eagle Slide on Giant.

Not nearly as remote, but very fun scrambling. I've done it once with hiking boots and a big pack, and once with rock shoes and a small pack and it was WAY less sketchy with rock shoes. Very fun scramble and a great alternative to the ever crowded hiking trail.

Edit: just realized I am faffing too. Shit!


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

There's a TR somewhere on the internets of MR. Rodgers climbing diaganol and case route in winter. If I recall, R took a short ground fall on verglass on the case route, so be careful alone.

I actually think the lady and I are gonna go check out the case route saturday or sunday. If we get shut down, so be it, we'll have a good time either way.

Or maybe we'll check out Pharaoh (anyone know if it's in? I'm kinda doubtful...).


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Thanks for the detailed info Kevin. Much appreciated. Giant mountain, gothics and chapel pond slabs seem like fun options to me if I were to solo.

Wallface has been on my mind since `Alpinist` did an article a few years back, I have the pic on my wall at work. Awesome looking!

Thanks again.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Thanks guys for the info! Ben great suggestions. I just got done reading (one sitting, super short and vague) peter crofts lightweight alpine climb book and his stories, ways, etc are in tune with mine, I'm motivated to scramble/climb up familiar (easy) terrain for sure!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

As a warmup to wallface and my high peaks experience (going slightly off topic) are there any longer, easier (5.4/5.5 or less), 5th class climbs that are farther south in the park? Meaning free climbable, safely, reasonably, in march or april?

A solo few day trip would be good for my head and my next logical progression.

Thank you


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Not really familiar with the Southern part of the park, but Roger's Rock has a 5.5 that goes for like 400 something feet on a slab approached by canoe. I'm not sure how that would go during March or April, though...usually more of a summer climb or early Fall

I think Crane might have some longer stuff? Not sure.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Thanks Ben. Ill look into that area at least.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

www.mountainproject.com/v/little-finger/106092140


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

Ben Brotelho wrote:
Not really familiar with the Southern part of the park, but Roger's Rock has a 5.5 that goes for like 400 something feet on a slab approached by canoe. I'm not sure how that would go during March or April, though...usually more of a summer climb or early Fall I think Crane might have some longer stuff? Not sure.


I think you're gonna want two ropes to rap little finger and, considering you will be paddling to the cliff, there may be a bit too much faffing for a quick solo.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Awesome ben! Thanks dude. I have a super lightweight kayak and love all kinds of jamming! This route is at my limit for free soloing and it provides lonely adventure! Love it. Thanks also eric.

Ben,

You interested in one day soon (before may) doing some soloing climbing with me? We can wear harnesses and have ropes ready but find long routes that we feel comfortable moving fast and light. Think bachar and croft but much more comfortable routes. Let me know what you think.

This goes for anyone. A solo (ropes and harness in case with some super light gear) long weekend sounds good to me, worth the price of gas. Legt me know.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 14, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Sending you a PM


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 14, 2013
Stoked...

The Stoned Master wrote:
I have a super lightweight kayak and love all kinds of jamming!


Little Fingers isn't a jamming route... It's a walk up. I think I placed two pieces on the first pitch.


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
Little Fingers isn't a jamming route... It's a walk up. I think I placed two pieces on the first pitch.


Yep. It was my lady's first trad lead, for what that's worth.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

I appreciate the correction guys. It definitly doesn't dampen my motivation though! Enjoy!


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