BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.
Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.
L->R: Lowest buttress
, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe
, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space
, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob
, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack
, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit
, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. Main buttress
G. On The Bough
, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose
, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side
, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out
, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist
, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner
, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog
, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.
Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
15 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Wall of Winter Warmth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall of Winter Warmth:
Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
The Slit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Mordor 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Bed Hog 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth
Mordor 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Wall of Winter Warmth
Mordor second pitch is by far one of the most spectacular in the Boulder area. Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good incut hold. Follow the bolts up the face and move...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Wall of Winter Warmth
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BETA PHOTO: Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth,...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon
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The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Bould...