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 ADVANCED
Wall of Winter Warmth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpha-Bob S,TR 
Angle of Repose S 
Bed Hog T 
Closed Open Space T,S,TR 
Direct Cop Out T 
Escutcheon T 
Leader of the Pack T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Mini Moe T,TR 
Mordor T,S 
On The Bough S 
Prisoner, The T 
Regular Route [WWW] T 
Slit, The T,TR 
Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The T,S 

Wall of Winter Warmth  


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Location: 40.0073, -105.405 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,289
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 11, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...

  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.

    Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.

    L->R:

    Lowest buttress
    A. Escutcheon, 10, 1p, gear.
    B. Mini Moe, 2, 1p, gear.
    C. Closed Open Space, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
    D. Alpha Bob, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
    E. Leader of The Pack, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
    F. The Slit, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

    Main buttress
    G. On The Bough, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
    H. Angle of Repose, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
    I. Left Side, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
    J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
    K. Direct Cop Out, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
    L. The Titleist, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
    M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
    NN. Mordor, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
    O. The Prisoner, 12-, 1p, gear.
    P. Bed Hog, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

    QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.9 miles from here

    15 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall of Winter Warmth:
    Left Side   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
    The Slit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Direct Cop Out   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
    Angle of Repose   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
    Mordor   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Bed Hog   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Browse More Classics in Wall of Winter Warmth

    Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth
    Mordor.

    Mordor 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Wall of Winter Warmth
    Mordor second pitch is by far one of the most spectacular in the Boulder area. Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good incut hold. Follow the bolts up the face and move...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Wall of Winter Warmth
    Photos of Wall of Winter Warmth Slideshow Add Photo
    Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth, near the creek. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth,...
    Lower Dream Canyon
    BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon
    Routes on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Left Side route is the dotted line.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Left Side rou...
    The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Boulder Falls in late summer. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
    The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Bould...

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