This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.
Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.
L->R: Lowest buttress
, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe
, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space
, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob
, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack
, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit
, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. Main buttress
G. On The Bough
, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose
, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side
, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out
, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist
, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner
, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog
, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.
Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
15 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Wall of Winter Warmth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall of Winter Warmth:
Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
The Slit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Mordor 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Bed Hog 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth
Angle of Repose 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Wall of Winter Warmth
This spectacular route starts just left of the end of the first pitch of Left Side (page 115, route 17 in Rossiter's guide) on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Access the start by climbing the first pitch of Left Side or hike down a steep gully from the top of the rock just above the Berlin Wall. A new two-bolt anchor has been placed at the start for a better and safer belay. Pitch 1: Follow a line of bolts up a steep wall. The first moves off the ground are the crux (lunge) and lead to s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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