BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.
Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.
L->R: Lowest buttress
, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe
, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space
, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob
, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack
, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit
, 9+, 1p, 100', gear. Main buttress
G. On The Bough
, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose
, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side
, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out
, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist
, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner
, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog
, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.
Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
15 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Wall of Winter Warmth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall of Winter Warmth:
Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
The Slit 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Mordor 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Bed Hog 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth
Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Wall of Winter Warmth
The Left Side could be a lost Boulder Canyon Classic. This is a very dramatic, challenging, and impressive route that takes the most direct line up the huge Wall of Winter Warmth. For a complete and rewarding ascent, try The Slit (9+, recommended and described below) or one of the newer bolted routes on the lower slab to the left (Alpha Bob 12a on the left or Leader of the Pack 11c/d on the right) as an approach pitch for a three star WWW outing. Every pitch has quality rock, with challenging...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Wall of Winter Warmth
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BETA PHOTO: Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth,...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Left Side rou...
The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Bould...