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Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Click Your Heels S 
Cowardly Lion S 
Dancing Dwarfs S 
Emerald City S 
Flying Monkeys S 
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 
Horse Of A Different Color S 
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain S 
Scarecrow S 
Tin Man S 

Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs  


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Elevation: 7,000'
Page Views: 3,387
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Mar 19, 2008
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Description 

The Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs is located immediately to the right of the Wall of the Marching Munchkins. The formation is a 165ft partially detached tower of blocky, golden and red rock. The rock faces west and sees sun starting around noon, slightly earlier than the neighboring walls. The climbs on the left are reminiscent of those found on the Wall of the Marching Munchkins while those on the right ascend larger, blocky features.

Three routes have second pitches. These routes, which are frequently climbed as single short pitches, are:

Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain P1: 5.10d, 65ft | P2: 5.12a, 50ft
Horse Of A Different Color P1: 5.11a, 90ft | P2: 5.10d, 50ft
Scarecrow P1: 5.8+, 65ft | P2: 5.10a, 90ft

These routes can be climbed as long single pitches or broken into two. The latter two routes require two rappels to descend while the former can be rappelled with a single 70m rope. The climber has some discretion regarding which first pitch is climbed.

Getting There 

Parking
Option #1: After 17 miles on Catalina Highway turn left onto Rose Canyon Road into Rose Canyon Campground. Follow the paved road to the end and park near the lake. As of 2015 the campground is open from mid-April to mid-October and parking entails a $10 per day fee.

Option #2: After 16 miles on Catalina Highway turn left onto Willow Canyon Road. On this gravel road pass primitive cabins turning right, straight, and left at the three intersections. At the summit park in a dirt parking lot on the right side of the road. On foot follow the trail downhill and cross an intermittent stream. Pass a small amphitheater with a boulder and walk through the paved parking lot. This option is free but adds 5 minutes to the approach.

Trail
From the circular paved parking lot next to Rose Canyon Lake pick up the trail behind the snack bar on the west side of the parking lot. Hike up a slab until the trail is once again visible at the top left. Follow the trail southwest for 15 minutes passing a 20 foot tall horizontal rock formation. At a clearing take the left fork for the Wall of the Waltzing Witches. For all other crags take the downhill, right fork. Follow the switchbacks through rocks and turn left. The crags are encountered in the following order: The Towers, Wall of the Marching Munchkins, Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs, Lurking Troll Tower????, Wall of the Trundling Trolls, and lastly The Roman Baths.

Crag
From far right (south) side of the Wall of the Marching Munchkins head away from wall towards the stream. Hike around a fallen tree and pick up the trail 50 feet or so away from the cliff. Follow this trail as it heads back towards the cliff. There are a number of turn offs for the climbs. The trail eventually intersects the cliff at Flying Monkeys.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs:
Flying Monkeys   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Emerald City   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   
Horse Of A Different Color   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Click Your Heels   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tin Man   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 115'   
Browse More Classics in Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs

Featured Route For Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
Rough outline of the route.

Flying Monkeys 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
As Hendrixson appropriately noted:Flying Monkeys differs from the standard Munchkinland fare in that ascends blocky, featured, orange rock up a subtle arete for 10 bolts in 80 feet. The route starts with a scramble to a high first bolt. From here jugs, sidepulls, and even a small fingerlock will keep your attention. The route is broken by a ledge a little past the halfway mark, which is reached on mild but slightly more runout terrain. In my opinion there are two crux sections. Flying Monkeys is...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
Comments on Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs Add Comment
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By Slaton Whatley
Aug 8, 2010
Did a couple of routes down on Dancing Dwarves today. After looking through Squeezing El Limon I think one of them was Horse of a Different Color 5.11-. It started out near the right facing corner. Worked its way up a bit then jumped into the corner, mantle onto a sloping ledge, then got hard and pumpy for the last few bolts. Looked like it continued onto to a possible second pitch. Fun climb, lots of bolts. Any clue what this was? Also the one to the right with a slabby start to monster jugs. Any info would be appreciated.

Definitely recommend both routes. The one near the corner climbs a beautiful orange colored face that stands out from the rest of the buttress. Worth the 2 minute hike down from the Munchkinland wall.
By Slaton Whatley
Sep 4, 2010
Not sure if anyone cares but the name of the route I mentioned above is Horse of a Different Color and it's really good. Apparently continues on with a second pitch at about 5.10+ or can be linked for one long, and supposedly amazing, pitch. Two ropes to rap though for sure.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 11, 2015
I took the liberty of reassigning this orphaned page to myself. I swapped 'Dwarves' with 'Drawfs', updated the elevation, and rewrote the description. I do not believe the route Aggro-culture exists as a sport route. Perhaps it is an old trad route?

Below is the previous description for comparison.

Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs prior to my edit.
Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs prior to my edit.


I also updated Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain and Scarecrow to include the second pitches.

Please alert me to any corrections.
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