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Sun Wall
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Wall of Horns TR 
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Wall of Horns 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg - 1981
Page Views: 843
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 12, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Not the best photo in the world, but it does show ...

Description 

An unusual route in that it doesn't follow a plumb line, Wall of Horns is a thought-provoking climb through juggy but overhanging conglomerate. But first, you've got to get through that long and spicy traverse.

Starting on the left side of a wide crack, climb about 10-15' to a point where there's enough positive hands and feet to begin moving left across the face. Continue the delicate traverse another 20' or so left and up to gain the namesake horns that will lead you to the anchors at the top.

Location 

In the Whipping Post area; starts on the wall across from Dreamscape left of a prominent crack.

Protection 

Marginal. This would be an R/X-rated lead and is best done as a toprope. Wearing a helmet is recommended, as a fall during the traverse will result in a long pendulum. Bolted anchors at the top.


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By Rod Thomas
From: Chattanooga,TN
Jul 12, 2010

Actually a worthwhile lead. Yes gear doesn't jump out at you and yes there is a traverse. The grade is adequate for the route if in fact you climb the grade and have knowledge to protect the route. It is interesting the number of route descriptions given by individuals who have not led that particular route. If you haven't touched the route on the sharp end then don't write a review telling people that it should only be done on toprope. Just my opinion.