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Chimney Spire
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Wall of Early Morning Fright T 

Wall of Early Morning Fright 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Willis, Dan Price 1974. FFA Bruce Hendricks, Slick Watts 1980
Season: Aug, Sep, Oct
Page Views: 982
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Nov 14, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: See that big crack in the right/center? Climb it!

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three.

P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9).

P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes.


It follows the obvious large crack on the SE face of the spire, to the right of duet.


Standard rack up to #5 camalot

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By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 8, 2015

I did this route a few times. I remember a fixed bong at the start of the wide. I also did a cool variation to the first pitch that had a nice surprise.
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