Wall of Attrition
||Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Milward, Jim Campbell Oct '84. FFA p3 Scott Young '85. FCA / FFA P5&6 John Rosholt, Peder Ourom '96|
|Season: ||Dry season. August.|
|Page Views: ||881|
|Submitted By: ||claramie on Aug 22, 2011|
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Expect plenty of this, and kitty litter if you get...
Wall of Attrition is called route #26 on the top #50 chief routes list. For us, it was pretty dirty with a decent amount of loose rock, vegetation and required gardening on lead. All in all, I don't really recommend the route... or at least, do the top 25 first and come over here if you're really itching for something new.
P1 (5.10-): Go straight left on the ledge about 25 feet to the tight dihedral with a continuous crack. Beware the long, skinny flake in the corner at the start, it is not really in there (but you use it anyways). Continue straight up and maybe slightly right through the left end of the roof bands on some ok gear then up a little more to a bolted anchor. (Note: about half way up the pitch, there is a flake that is easy to traverse out left to a ledge. I went over there and it was all mossy and seemed off route).
P2 (5.11b): The money pitch. Climb seams past 4 or 5 fixed pins to a series of three stacked flakes in the corner that you can either jam or lieback. The seam was rather dirty and grassy so you might want to have your nut tool ready to clean on lead. Finish at a bolted anchor. Recommend to keep going and link to the next anchor as it would be an uncomfortable belay.
P3 (5.10-): Continue up and right to another bolted belay on a ledge at the base of the main dihedral #3 or #4 to back up since bolts are rusty).
P4 (5.10): The dihedral pitch. Start out on a 15 section of wide crack. A #4 might fit but we didnt take one. You can place a #3 deeper in one spot or just punch it to the ledge that starts the main dihedral. Climb this left leaning to right leaning dihedral past bushes and loose chockstones. Be prepared to clean on lead and be careful not to dislodge the loose blocks. Topo shows bolt or FP for traverse left at the end but I didnt see anything. Grey or yellow alien protects the traverse well. End at bolted belay.
(From here, the old 2001 McClane book shows the last two pitches as mid 5.10 but I had a different experience, which I will write up here since I spent plenty of time unsuccessfully looking for the documented line).
P5 (10+ / 11-): Go up and left around the corner from the belay. Punch it through dirty, loose stuff. Place a couple marginal pieces. Pull a hard move to claw some dirt until you can grab the tree root (if you're tall you might not have to jump to it). Yard on this and tie it off, continuing to a really chossy ledge. I got lost here but I really think you just want to go straight left at this ledge because there is a three bolt anchor over there. I tried to go up and right (as topo indicated) and ended up on a poorly protected slab which I tried to start 4 times before backing off. Then I tried going far right on the ledge, which went nowhere, then finally back left and found that anchor. Book says bold 10c. Id say harder than that, chossy and a potentially bad fall on the hard move.
P6 (5.11- PG13): Looking up and slightly right from the bolted belay you will see 2 right angling hand cracks (slung horn with fixed biner on top) and a right angling flake just right of these. Choose one (I took the left crack) and climb past the pinnacle, clipping the fixed sling up and left into a dihedral. I thought this dihedral was full-on. Not great gear and really thin, I ended up aiding it using four micro brass offset nuts in little crystals (including the tiny black one) and it still felt sketch. Climb (or aid) this dihedral then pull some thin flake/sport moves up and right to reach the far left end of the dance platform behind some massive boulders. Use the rope to extend the anchor all the way back to a tree (or further to a bolted anchor) and a #1 & #2 behind a chocktone up there and then just use the fixed cordalette as a directional.
To get off, traverse right behind the huge boulders to the bolted anchor. Walk the bellygood style ledge to 4th class that takes you up to the roman chimneys start. You can rap from this tree back down to the the far left side of bellygood and escape, or link into upper black dyke or some other route.
Just left of University Wall, starting from the U Wall approach ledge. All of this is about a 5 minute walk left/uphill from the grand wall scramble start. The approach ledge is basically right above Seasoned in the Sun.
To approach, go up and right on the U Wall approach ledge almost to the end (where U Wall starts). Then scramble up steep 4th class gully past bushes and use an old, ratty fixed rope to go up and left to another little ledge with a slung tree. Belay here to start the climb.
Double rack from blue alien to #3 camalot, optional #4 camalot but not necessary (you can also get by with just 1x #3). Full set of nuts (I use offsets, including micro brass hb offsets and I really needed them for the end).
the only splitter part of the climb. Mike still be...
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 22, 2011
Thanks for posting this Clayton, I've been wondering about it.
Do you think it would be significantly better if it received a good cleaning? It seems like there has been a huge amount of cleaning going on over the last few years that has resurrected some old classics and created some new ones.
What Top 50 list for Squamish are you referring to?
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2011
Peter, I'm sure the route would get cleaner with consistent traffic. P1, P2 (money pitch), and P4 (other money pitch) could all be pretty good. All are dirty, but P1 also has a bit of loose rock (including a 5m+ long thin spear-like flake that is tough to not touch... and it moves). P2 would be the best pitch of the climb if the pin scar seam didn't need to be cleaned with a nut tool on lead (grass & dirt in thin locks and seam crimps). P3 is short and fine as is (although dirty). P4, the dihedral has at least 3 - 5 decent sized, loose chockstones that need to go, along with many smaller ones that will fall out once the bigger guys are gone. The crack is also home to a few bushes and plants. P5 is hopeless. The only parts that aren't chossy are the trees and dirt. Maybe I went the wrong way (topo shows up and right through roof bands... there are some roofs but they are kitty litter so didn't seem like the way to go). P6 could clean up but that last corner is in your face if leading on gear. A fixed pin or bolt could help but you still might hit the ledge depending on the belay. Quite a few of the anchor bolts are rusty too, but didn't seem like a serious issue yet.
A friend told me about the top 50 classics list. I'm not sure which book they are referencing though. I just know that everything else I have done in Squamish is WAY nicer, cleaner and better protected with more classic climbing throughout.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2011
Peter, I spoke to my friend. The 50 classics list is on the wall at the adventure center, not in a book. Also, I took another hard look at the topo photo from the 2001 mclane book and we WERE off route on the last two pitches. Apparently pitch 5 you DO take the heinously chossy kitty-litter roof bands up and right. Then P6 would be a different corner straight up to the Dance Platform arriving at on the RIGHT side of the three huge blocks at that bolted anchor (you would have to fight some vegtetation at the end to reach the belay). Don't know if this way would be less or more intense than what we did... but get ready for adventure if you go past P4.