|Ranger Station Rock
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Found on the highly featured north west face of Ranger Station Rock on the far right side. The crux is getting to the base of the route as much scrambling and 4th classing is required to reach the large ledge below the route. The rock is unusually featured similar to swiss cheese which is fairly un-common for Joshua Tree. It's close proximity to a multitude of easy routes makes this a good destination for those looking for a day of fun away from the crowds with plenty of easier to moderate routes to play on.
Look for the obvious swiss cheese wall up high on the far right side North West face of Ranger station rock about 100 feet right of Swain in the Breeze
There aren't any anchors at the top you have to build it yourself but there is a walk off to the south west.
View (Northeast) from a ways up the scramble towar...
This guy tried to count them all!
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c R
This is one of those routes at Josh that half will love and the other half will cry about the approach because they have too much tunnel-vision to realize that the approach is part of the climb. This one especially. You scramble through the usual boulder field, then either climb the bottom of 5.6 Swain in the Breeze, 5.8 Ohwhatafooliam, or take a "ramp" to a small ledge with a "sunken garden." We went up Swain, and I don't know where the "ramp" is, but from the ledge, you scoot up a slot on the right to an eight foot chimney (easy) then over a couple more boulders to a huge ledge. There you are.
From there, there are many ways to the top (10,000?) some probably 4th class. Didn't see the downclimb mentioned in the description, so just downclimbed the route unroped. It really is a ladder of pockets and buckets. A fun little adventure.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 23, 2011
I only counted 9,996 but maybe I missed a few. This thing is a really fun solo.
|By Dave Kos|
Nov 6, 2013
The approach is more difficult than the climb, at least the way we did it. I couldn't find a way to the base that didn't have a few 5.3ish moves.
The actual climb is anywhere from maybe 5.7R to 5.0, depending on how direct you go at the start.
Once you are in the 10,000 holds, there are enough opportunities for protection.
This route is fun if you are looking for a technical hike or solo. As an actual pitch of "climbing," it's probably not worth the approach.
|By Brandt Allen|
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Nov 6, 2013
Comments on the approach:
In over 30 years of climbing in JT this was some of the hardest scrambling I've ever done. I was too scared to do the "ramp" approach and came in to the base of the route from the other direction. At one point I changed from approach shoes to climbing shoes for a little extra security. Very adventurous!