Mark Sprague told me about this crack a while back after he put in an anchor above it and tried it a little on TR. Anyway the beta I had in mind took a good bit of cleaning of lichen and loose rocks. Today I went out to give it my first try. I came very close to an onsight on my first go, falling on the #6 cam in the crux. I cleaned the route and sent on my second go.
Basically climb the low off-width roof how ever you can manage (I went upside down but who knows what you might come up with) and continue up the chimney above to the anchor.
Im not sure on a letter grade but the "boulder problem" crux i felt was v4 or harder so it seemed like 5.12 made sense. I'd love other peoples opinions on the grade so climb it.
Thanks a bunch for telling me about it Mark.
On the far left end of triple corners to the right of the fixed rope gully that goes toward the hinterlands.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jul 6, 2009
Nice going, Lee! I can't help much with the grade. I only tried it once, on TR, and before the loose flakes inside were cleaned out. I wouldn't doubt the grade you propose. I used the flakes some and it still felt pretty hard and I ended up dropping out of the slot. Without the flakes to push off, I would imagine it would be much more strenuous and require interesting technique. I too ended up inverted part of the time.
It is cool that several hard, worthy trad lines have gone in at Rumney recently
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 6, 2009
Thanks Mark... i was not able to remove the main chock stone/flake in there which proved to be very helpful for my beta and i decided it was even solid enough to protect with... i did remove a bunch of rock and lichen which changed things a litle... Thanks again for getting me psyched on it!!!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 7, 2009
Haha. I saw this in the new guidebook. Nice going, Lee.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 2, 2009
haha yeah not a bad name... naming them is half the fun... the name i gave it had like 3 meanings... it came to me while looking at a picture of my wife walking an evil puppy we referred to as the devil, also i was planning on walking the #6 cam which is a devil of a size, and in the end i walked the route compared to what a devil i thought it would be... so there is the story... anyone who likes OW roofs will like this route...
Sooo...way different beta on my part I went left side in fist jam in the flake invert of my left hand then flail a lot. Cam popped out I feel I need a 7 lol almost sent man...comin back for another go soon. But I got the start beta nailed now....great route man! Good meetin ya the other day as well!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 31, 2012
glad you like it! im surprised the cam didnt stay, my #6 was bomber... glad it sounds like you are ok... it was indeed nice to run in to you and i look forward to seeing you post about sending this thing :)