Walking on Sunshine
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BETA PHOTO: shows most of the climb
|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
I like silly puns. This is perhaps the best of the slab routes established here by Mike Baker and his friends, (if only because of the name).This is the rightmost of the face routes, on this nice slab. They get harder as you move left to right, as the slab curves into a steeper configuration further right. The rock is better as the angle steepens up too, so this climb is mostly on great varnished Wingate, rather than the pale gritty fleshy stuff the easier routes waddle up.The pitch starts with thin moves to climb straight up to the first bolt. Or sidle across from the left to avoid this bit.The climbing is superb, linking crispy edges, on beautiful rippled stone, with a variety of mantels and high steps. The moves at the third (?) bolt are not easy. You smear right and clamber up onto a (not very) rounded protuberance. If you are real confident on thin smeary face, you'll have no trouble, but more slab-challenged folks (like myself) will struggle to get established on the lump, from where the next bolt becomes clippable. Above this a ridiculously tenuous smear move on perfect black Wingate, luckily with a bolt in front of your face. There is an odd finger/toe-pocket hereabouts. Not very natural-looking, in just the right place to step up into. Maybe this was going to be a bolt-hole. It's not entirely necessary. Grunt right here to a big foot-ledge. Relax. Step left and up onto more sandy ripply territory and much more generic climbing, with ever bigger scallops. Forge upwards to the anchors.
Pro is quickdraws. maybe about eight or ten.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2010
This was the hardest of the named routes here. I kept asking for a wisk broom to clean off the holds. None of these routes have much in the way of thick desert varnish to protect the surface, so the edges are rounding down. Powerful moves in a cool location.
By Justin Compton
From: Lafayette, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bring some webbing or cord to replace the sun faded webbing that's up there. The anchor is one bolt and a piton equalized with webbing.