Walking Jack 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Mark Bauer, et al |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Curry on Feb 24, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The route. It's the main crack splitting right up...
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Description Offering a brief section of fists and big-fists (off-width for wee folk), Walking Jack may leave you feeling like you've been kicked in the leg. For those accustomed to wide cracks there is a second, thinner crux awaiting them high on the route. Rarely led, despite excellent protection, this climb is often top-roped after leading Whisker Biscuit.
Location Walking Jack faces east and is located about 40 ft. right of Whisker Biscuit. Look for a 3.5" crack leading towards a large wedged block about 30' up.
Protection Doubles of 1/2" through 3" including one 3.5" piece. Stoppers are also useful.
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Apr 3, 2009
| Good climb. The second crux kept trying to spit me out. Watch out right after the crux hands section. There is a block thats wedged in the crack. I used it to pull on, but it sounds pretty hollow. I personally avoided placing in gear in that six feet. |
By Milton Mugambe
Jan 18, 2010
| Sand-bagged for the onsight lead. It's more like 5.10d or 5.11a. |
By Ryan Curry
Mar 8, 2010
| Agreed, Milt. I changed the grade accordingly. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| You could even bring a 5" or 6" piece to protect the brief offwidth, but the 3.5" friend and 4" camalot I brought were sufficient. I found the crux to be the overhanging thin hands over a bulge just above the o-dub. There are some cool face-type shenanigans up higher. This is yet another quality Woodfords route. |
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013
| No matter how many times I climb this, that wedged block unnerves me. |
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c
| Fun climb, probably closer to .10c. Can use a 5 maybe 6 on it, 2 4's are very useful. Flared hands crux is tough. Quality route, the block is disconcerting...not sure it feels like it's gonna go, but definitely don't protect around it. Climbing is easy there anyway. |
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