|Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>|
The first bolt is up high. Supposedly you can get to it by climbing straight up or angling a little in from the left (11c, tricky pro), but most people will want to move in sort of from the right side (5.10, good pro) on good flakes, starting just a little to the left of Bienvenidos. Make an awkward clip of bolt 2 from a sidepull to its right. I found that to move past the second bolt I needed to move left to the arete to the left and pull on small knobs to reach a right-slanting rail. This seemed hard for 5.10c, but I'd be hesitant to call this solid 5.11 either, but the pro is a good bolt in the right place. After the 3rd bolt, angle up and right on classic TP face climbing in the same vein as the others in the area- 5.8 or 5.9 knobs with a lot of space between gear in occasional diagonal cracks and a couple of bolts to guide your way to the top.
The climb is rated as 5.10c in RCNM (with the start from the right side) and 5.11c in Taos Rock (presumably with a start coming in from the left?). It seemed to me like the right start was really the only obvious way to begin.
Like Bienvenidos and many others at TP, this is well protected on the crux (5.10) sections, but the easier upper section is runout.
Nearly every climb from the middle to the right side of Mosaic Rock is excellent, this one included.
This climb is the bolted line left of Bienvenidos and about 20' right of Clean Green Dream
Cams up to 1" (red camalot) and nuts. The cruxes are bolt protected; 5 bolts total.
At the top, traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor/rappel station for Bienvenidos (rap from this with 1 60m rope, or walk off farther right if you prefer).