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By wankel7
From Dallas TexASS
Aug 22, 2011

Who uses them on multi pitch climbs?

Any info on their use and how not to drop them?

I've already picked some up.

I understand you can drop them and the batteries will die. So I phave a rope tug backup worked out.

Thanks!


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By Chris D
From the couch
Aug 22, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Lots of discussion about this recently.

www.mountainproject.com/v/communicating-on-multi-pitch-route>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/2-way-radios-for-climbing/10717421>>>

Search around for more.


If there's a hole somewhere on the clip (as there is on my radios) tie a loop of accessory cord through it and use that to girth-hitch (or clip with a biner) the radio to your harness/gear sling/etc. Works well. Do something like this, or you WILL drop your radio.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Aug 22, 2011

wankel7 wrote:
Who uses them on multi pitch climbs?


Mostly slow n00bs in my experience.


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By Matt Marino
From Georgetown, MA
Aug 22, 2011
Haul Bag

If you use radios make sure you think about where you keep them (harness, sling, ect..) and how breakable ithey are in the event of a fall. Chances are that radio is the only thing you're carrying that's made of very stiff cheap plastic. I took a 30+ foot lead fall while aiding and my radio was shattered into little pieces.


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By wankel7
From Dallas TexASS
Aug 22, 2011

caughtinside wrote:
Mostly slow n00bs in my experience.


It's me ....over here....slow noob!

Look no further !

But I'm learning quickly .


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By Ed Wright
Aug 22, 2011
Magic Ed

caughtinside wrote:
Mostly slow n00bs in my experience.


And deaf guys like me. I frequently use radios on multi-pitch, especially when I'm bolting a new route and communications with my partner can get complex--as opposed to simple on-belay, off-belay stuff that can be done with rope tugs.

I've found the most convenient way to carry the radio is on a lanyard around my neck.

The key to using radios is to always acknowledge each other's communication and to bring extra batteries.


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By NickinCO
From Westminster, CO
Aug 23, 2011
me

I've taped them to a sling before and had good results


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By Brian Snider
From NorCal
Aug 23, 2011
me

I normally carry a backpack on long routes and clip to my shoulder strap, that way its right by my face and don't have to remove it. I was climbing next to a water fall with some noobs and the simplicity of it was great. Had the radio died we would have been screwed, next time ill have a back up plan.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Aug 23, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

caughtinside wrote:
Mostly slow n00bs in my experience.


And people that climb a lot of roof routes. I also have a partner that has decreased hearing. Oh yeah, crowded areas where everyone is screaming over each other.

I think it has more to do with personal preference than climbing experience.

To answer the original question, my partner secures his using accessory cord through the little loop in the top to a biner. I carry mine in a Velcro pouch on a shoulder sling.


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By Brice Harris
Aug 23, 2011

I had a mostly deaf climbing partner for a while, multipitching was always interesting. She always claimed to have some sort of voice activated in ear mic type walkie, but never produced them when we climbed. More rope pulling than you can possibly want. Could be useful in some situations but I know my partners well enough to understand what they do and know by feel if I'm on belay.

In rope access work we use a radio harness. They don't fit the cheaper radios very well, but they work great and strap to just about anything offering only to reach up and grab the button and yak.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Aug 23, 2011

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:
And people that climb a lot of roof routes. I also have a partner that has decreased hearing. Oh yeah, crowded areas where everyone is screaming over each other. I think it has more to do with personal preference than climbing experience.


The Gunks... my ultimate n00b nightmare.

There is no need to scream, shout, or carry on extensive conversations from opposite ends of the rope. That is n00b behavior. The whole operation is easily conducted in silence.


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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Aug 23, 2011
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers   in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

caughtinside wrote:
The Gunks... my ultimate n00b nightmare. There is no need to scream, shout, or carry on extensive conversations from opposite ends of the rope. That is n00b behavior. The whole operation is easily conducted in silence.


BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE GROUND, THERE'S SOMETHING YOU NEED TO KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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By "H"
From Garden of Gods
Aug 23, 2011
Axes glistening in the sun

I've used them before on the Teton and I used to use them on some shorter trad climbs. Dummy chord them to yourself. I had a partner who was hard of hearing (literally.) Mixed bag for me. Kind of annoying but kind of useful. Annoying to have one more thing on my harness, but useful as we could hear each other in high wind and when we were out of site of each other and it it made it difficult to hear.


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By -sp
From East-Coast
Aug 23, 2011
Buenos Dias!

caughtinside wrote:
The Gunks... my ultimate n00b nightmare. There is no need to scream, shout, or carry on extensive conversations from opposite ends of the rope. That is n00b behavior. The whole operation is easily conducted in silence.


And I thought I was the last climber on the planet that thought that.


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By Derek W
From Larkspur, CO
Aug 23, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron

caughtinside wrote:
The Gunks... my ultimate n00b nightmare. There is no need to scream, shout, or carry on extensive conversations from opposite ends of the rope. That is n00b behavior. The whole operation is easily conducted in silence.


Until you can't see your partner and there is too much rope drag on a wandering alpine route for rope tugs to be clear...

However, I do really enjoy silent communication and it is my primary form of communication.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Aug 23, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

-sp wrote:
And I thought I was the last climber on the planet that thought that.


Actually I find it to be one of the most overused, tired, old complaints ever. Yeah, the Gunks are packed with noobs, big shock. If you go to the Disneyland of climbing (no approach at all, well known spot, regular guiding spot, etc.) don't be too surprised at the admittedly sometimes annoying crowds.

Or just spend the height of the summer season hiding out in the ADKs and return once fall comes and the crowds thin out.


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By -sp
From East-Coast
Aug 23, 2011
Buenos Dias!

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:
Actually I find it to be one of the most overused, tired, old complaints ever. Yeah, the Gunks are packed with noobs, big shock. If you go to the Disneyland of climbing (no approach at all, well known spot, regular guiding spot, etc.) don't be too surprised at the admittedly sometimes annoying crowds. Or just spend the height of the summer season hiding out in the ADKs and return once fall comes and the crowds thin out.


I could have parsed the quote better - I have no issue with noobs or the Gunks, just that so many people feel compelled to scream commands when it's almost entirely unnecessary.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Aug 24, 2011
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

-sp wrote:
I could have parsed the quote better - I have no issue with noobs or the Gunks, just that so many people feel compelled to scream commands when it's almost entirely unnecessary.


Aw, then big apologies to you. I'm very "he's not heavy, he's my brother," about my home crag :)


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By Chris D
From the couch
Aug 24, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

I recommend these.

If you get a pair, let me know how they work!

at $8, whaddaya got to lose?


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Aug 24, 2011

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:
Aw, then big apologies to you. I'm very "he's not heavy, he's my brother," about my home crag :)


All you gunkies are. That's why yanking your chains is so much fun.


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