|Redgarden - S Buttress
From the anchors atop Night or P1 of Blackwalk, head up and left into a roof system. Follow this with underclings and jams past a hangerless bolt and then a good bolt, then turn the roof at its left margin. Continue up on easier rock, or stop at an intermediate anchor (top of High Noon I believe) to belay.
This has some decent climbing but some low-quality rock as well.
Walking the talk from a belay on Blackwalk passing...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
5.9+ seems about right. The route is probably S, owing to a 9+ move getting off of the belay and continuing 5.9 for a short bit to reach the first pro. A factor-2 fall is certainly possible from a 5.9 move. The first pro was a medium stopper at the top of the initial section, pinching and side-pulling on a 2-3 meter long right-facing flake. A passive pink tricam would have been better, but Josh and I disagree on how bad the stopper was. I am pretty darn sure it would have been fine to fall on & I looked at it carefully when I placed it. The first bolt in Rossiter's topo is a hangerless 1/4" split-shaft. It hangs out far enough to swage a stopper over it. The next bolt is good and pro above that is "good enough" with a few cams from quite small to 1.5" plus a #2 Camalot. The best way to finish the route was unclear to me. You can diagonal out left on the crack and overhang system all the way to the bolt-anchors above High Noon and Pilgrim, then pick your way up runout moderate climbing to the big ledge above, but Rossiter seems to indicate crossing the roof just above the second bolt into 5.6 territory to reach the ledge. That option seemed less interesting/fun. The moves from the base to the anchor described are odd and fun. 2-stars in my book right there.
|By Boo T. Call|
Feb 28, 2005
Prussiks for the second would not be inappropriate if there's any question of a fall.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2007
The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included.
Jun 16, 2012
This makes a great climb when combined with the first two pitches of Dessert.