Walk the Talk 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | FFA: Duncan Ferguson, Bill Putnam, Jim Erickson, 1971 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 3 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2004 |
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Josh Janes follows up to the big traverse on 'Walk...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description From the anchors atop Night or P1 of Blackwalk, head up and left into a roof system. Follow this with underclings and jams past a hangerless bolt and then a good bolt, then turn the roof at its left margin. Continue up on easier rock, or stop at an intermediate anchor (top of High Noon I believe) to belay. This has some decent climbing but some low-quality rock as well.
Protection Standard rack.
Walking the talk from a belay on Blackwalk passing...
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| Comments on Walk the Talk |
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By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| 5.9+ seems about right. The route is probably S, owing to a 9+ move getting off of the belay and continuing 5.9 for a short bit to reach the first pro. A factor-2 fall is certainly possible from a 5.9 move. The first pro was a medium stopper at the top of the initial section, pinching and side-pulling on a 2-3 meter long right-facing flake. A passive pink tricam would have been better, but Josh and I disagree on how bad the stopper was. I am pretty darn sure it would have been fine to fall on & I looked at it carefully when I placed it. The first bolt in Rossiter's topo is a hangerless 1/4" split-shaft. It hangs out far enough to swage a stopper over it. The next bolt is good and pro above that is "good enough" with a few cams from quite small to 1.5" plus a #2 Camalot. The best way to finish the route was unclear to me. You can diagonal out left on the crack and overhang system all the way to the bolt-anchors above High Noon and Pilgrim, then pick your way up runout moderate climbing to the big ledge above, but Rossiter seems to indicate crossing the roof just above the second bolt into 5.6 territory to reach the ledge. That option seemed less interesting/fun. The moves from the base to the anchor described are odd and fun. 2-stars in my book right there. |
By Boo T. Call Feb 28, 2005
| Prussiks for the second would not be inappropriate if there's any question of a fall. |
By Steve Levin From: Boulder, CO May 4, 2007
| The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included. |
By dlight Jun 16, 2012
| This makes a great climb when combined with the first two pitches of Dessert. |
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