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 ADVANCED
Candlelight Buttress
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First Responder T 
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Walk the Line S 

Walk the Line 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S. Cox and T. Mayr, September 2003
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Choncho on Aug 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start on the far right side of the big ledge at the base of Candlelight. Have the belayer clip an anchor bolt for Bobo's. Leave yourself (the belayer) about 10ft of slack so you can see your climber.
Climb out right off the big ledge over a small mogul and clip a bolt, up and right again, then straight up (5-6 more bolts) to an anchor. A great pitch.
Second pitch is not bad, but pretty easy at about 5.7 (5-6 bolts). It is possible to do another pitch and top out (no bolts).
This route was established Sept 12, 2003 - the day Johnny Cash died.

Protection 

bolts


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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Aug 27, 2011

This climb can be extended by climbing the last 2 pitches of Bobo's Bonanza. These pitches wander up and left on mostly 5.5ish terrain with some climbing up to 5.7. The climbing is runout with 2 (old) bolts per pitch. It's worth it if you want some extra mileage and if you like playing "where's the next bolt?" in a sea of knobs.

To descend, rappel Shining (11d) with one 60m rope.
By gription
From: Inyokern
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route. First pitch feels exposed and committing right off the ledge. I don't understand why there is a bolt way out right almost level with the belay. I ignored this and just went up the "mogul" as suggested by the description and used an alpine runner to extend the clip, keeping the rope more in line with the rest of the bolts. Also I disagree with having the belay at the bottom be extended by many feet, as suggested above, to enable line of sight to the climber. If the leader took a fall the belayer would be pulled forward toward the belay and risk a face plant.

5.9 feels consistent with other climbs in the portal for the first pitch and the second pitch is much easier. Al in all, a fun two pitch climb, though I suspect it could be done as one pitch with a 70M rope.
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