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Walk on the Wide Side
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 18
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Aerial Boundaries S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 |
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Arcanum T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack of Dawn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eight Miles High S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Immaculate Deception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kama Sutra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lightspeed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mind Bender S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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MLK T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mystic Mile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prince Charmer T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree of Life, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk on the Wide Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wave, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 |
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Wings of Desire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Bersto, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,997 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Aug 27, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Like the other trad crack routes at Sleeping Beauty, this is a little ugly and a little dirty and often a little wet. If not for that, this and the other crack routes would be 2 stars.
Start: as you traverse right on Ledge 2, there is a gap that you can pass either by squeezing behind a tree or by lowering down and then climbing back up. Just beyond this are the bolted climbs Wings of Desire and MLK and then the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side.
P1: 5.9 sustained at the 5.8/5.9 level. Climb the hand crack left of the wide crack (MLK also climbs this crack) to the first bolt on MLK. Step right into the wide crack (#4 Friend). Move up into the slot and climb it with fun stemming with small gear (green/yellow/red Aliens). Optional belay above the slot. You could clip a bolt up and left on MLK for the belay. Continue up a pleasant hand crack with feet mostly on big slopers. The crack widens as it approaches an overhang with a spike of rock sticking out. Use a #3 Camalot. Stem up and grab the spike. It's a bit spooky, but seems to be solid. You can get a good nut above the spike. Stem up higher then step left and up. The MLK anchor can be seen to your left. Continue up a lower angle left facing corner with a few more jams to a good ledge on the right and the anchor, 115'.
P1 variation: the wide crack right of the regular start can be climbed at about 10a if you use the many knobs on its left side. It would be much harder if you used only crack technique. You'll want a #5 Camalot if you lead this.
P2: 5.7, sport. Angle right from the anchor to a "rib" and the first bolt. Continue up on pleasant climbing to the anchor. Since this anchor has no rings, continue straight right then up a bit to the anchor on Immaculate Deception.
Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.
Start: as you traverse right on Ledge 2, there is a gap that you can pass either by squeezing behind a tree or by lowering down and then climbing back up. Just beyond this are the bolted climbs Wings of Desire and MLK and then the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side.
P1: 5.9 sustained at the 5.8/5.9 level. Climb the hand crack left of the wide crack (MLK also climbs this crack) to the first bolt on MLK. Step right into the wide crack (#4 Friend). Move up into the slot and climb it with fun stemming with small gear (green/yellow/red Aliens). Optional belay above the slot. You could clip a bolt up and left on MLK for the belay. Continue up a pleasant hand crack with feet mostly on big slopers. The crack widens as it approaches an overhang with a spike of rock sticking out. Use a #3 Camalot. Stem up and grab the spike. It's a bit spooky, but seems to be solid. You can get a good nut above the spike. Stem up higher then step left and up. The MLK anchor can be seen to your left. Continue up a lower angle left facing corner with a few more jams to a good ledge on the right and the anchor, 115'.
P1 variation: the wide crack right of the regular start can be climbed at about 10a if you use the many knobs on its left side. It would be much harder if you used only crack technique. You'll want a #5 Camalot if you lead this.
P2: 5.7, sport. Angle right from the anchor to a "rib" and the first bolt. Continue up on pleasant climbing to the anchor. Since this anchor has no rings, continue straight right then up a bit to the anchor on Immaculate Deception.
Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.
Protection
P1 is trad: a single set small cams (green Alien or smaller), doubles in hand size to #3.5 Friend/#3 Camalot, #4 Friend or #3.5 Camalot; one set nuts; 15+ draws; and some long slings. The P1 anchor is 2 bolts with rings. P2 is sport, 5.7, 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with NO rings. To rap, traverse right and up a bit to the Immaculate Deception anchor. The jams are comfy, so no tape or crack gloves are necessary.
Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.
Per Dan Raymond: the P2 anchor now has quicklinks.
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