2013 Raptor Closures Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Having used the "Walk of Shame" to get back to the rim on my last three out of four trips to the Black, I feel like I'm well qualified to give the Beta. The Walk, essentially, is the Cruise Gully in reverse.
An inevitable precursor to the "Walk of Shame" is to first bail off your route of choice; how high you climb before you do this is totally up to you. Last time down I was so eager to do The Walk that I lowered off a piece halfway up the first pitch.
Once safely back on terra firma below North Chasm View Wall, head back into the Cruise Gully, battling slippery boulders, loose scree and poison ivy. Notice the parties climbing swiftly and confidently on the walls above you: Don't they look happy?
This is not for you. Keep walking.
At the base of the first rappel, move right into a decomposing gully/chimney (5.4). Step left at the top, passing the rappel chains (grab the fixed line if it's in place), to get back into the main gully. VS with no rope, perhaps S if you lead it. Classic.
Walk up about 150 feet to the base of the second rappel. Climb the slippery, dirt-covered chimney until you can either step right or left (exposed) onto easier ground. Wander up ledgy territory until you're just below the chain anchors, where a delectable mantel move (5.5) gets you over the hump. VS, again, with no rope. Probably semi-safe with one. Ultra-classic.
Continue up mixed (dirt, scree, talus) terrain to the Rim, and the campground. You've really earned that beer ... boy, howdy!
I'm pretty sure I hold the speed record for a solo ascent of this wonderful climb.Ok long story short; I'm allergic to bee's.My partner and I are in the bottom of the canyon, and sure enough I get stung.Was I smart enough to bring an epi pen? NOPE! Maybe some benadryl? NOPE!So needless to say I had a vested interest in moving quick, lest my throat swell shut.So I pinched off the nearest artery, and hauled ass. Stopping only long enough to fix and toss a rope to/for my partner at the upper rappel/climb.Thanks to the ranger for the double dose of benedryl.
The deterioration of this classic outing provides a textbook example of how modern innovtaions (e.g. beta based web sites, guidebooks, trail signs) have ruined everything. Back in the day, when the only published guide to the Black was a vague bit of filler from an ancient Rock and Ice, and one generally relied on half-remembered word of mouth, the route went as follows:
From the campground walk east some distance past the ranger station, turn south/right and follow vague trails down the "Cruise Gully". After much class 4 & 5 downclimbing and rappeling from weathered single slings, start looking for your climb. Nothing really matches, so continue down. If you feel the call of nature, don't foul the "trail" -- in the interest of modesty and public hygine, ensconce yourself in some of the abundant vegetation and do your business. Soon you will realize that you are not in the Cruise Gully at all (later you will learn that you descended Grizzly Gulch) and that your best option at this point is to continue unenjoyably down to the river, then boulder-hop up stream, towards what you are somewhat confident is the real CG, and ascend the CG to your route. Typcial time to Journey Home or Scenic Cruise: 4 hours.
At this point, admire the parties halfway up your intended climb and in view of overall exhaustion, declining condfidence and increasing irritableness, bag the intended route and resign yourself to the Walk of Shame. (Note, this approach eliminates the "invevitable precursor" of MS's description.)
Variation: (many extra bomb's): Partway up TWOS, before the crux sections, you may see a party on a familiar looking climb on the right/east side of the gully. Identify this as Maiden Voyage (5.9) and decide to salvage the day by ticking this modest undertaking rather than completing TWOS. Five pitches get you to the end of MV, out of water and patience and feeling that even a ten minute walk along the rim back to camp is too long.This is when it becomes obvious that you are not at the rim, but atop a a pinnacle and that you are hardly any closer to the rim that when you started MV. Winging it, make a rappel or two and head north up a trailless side gully with many wrong turns and vegetation thickets. Memories of Lauren Husted may lead your bonking partner to demand a belay on class two slabs.
Once finally back at the rim, Ebay doesn't yet exist so deposit your gear, along w/ the offending R&I guide, in the trashcan at the ranger station. Memories of your adventure will be refreshed several times a day for the next few weeks during and between applications of Calamine lotion.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 27, 2003
Between Matt and David's comments, I think I am going to be fired for laughing too loud at work. Thanks guys. Thankfully I've only scoped this route from the raps, but I can't wait to send it before too long.
Having pleasure of the flash for many routes of excellent in the Canyon Black, I have great sadness to know that by rappel preview of the Walk of Shame I will not achieve greatness of Flash for this fine route.
I did not make the comment that has been given my name. I have not ever climbed in the Black Canyon. Most of my last year has been spent with my girl friend, Donna, who lives in Boulder. We have traveled much during the last year, so most of our climbing has not even been in Colorado. Perhaps this was not correctly entered when it was made.
Last time I was there the ranger told me about a guy asking where 'the 5.7 with the fixed anchors' was. Eventually it was ascertained that this guy was referring to to rap anchors in the Cruise gully, after reading in the guidebook that the Walk carried this rating.
if the reason for your retreat form one of the fine routes on the chasm view happens to include some sort of debilitating injury, such as a smashed and painful left hand in my case, then this fine route can be sent one handed at the modest grade of 9+. a large rack on your harness and a rope on your back should add to the excitement. have fun!
I believe I have the 1st winter ascent of the WoS. In the winter of 79 four of us Gunnisoids went down to attempt the 1st winter ascent of the Nose. (This was prehaps the first winter attempt on any major Black Canyon route.) Things went pretty well until we got a runny nose when a 'wall of storm' spanked us and coated everything in ice. So we went down and uh, of course up. Four full pigs of winter wall gear, no fixed ropes and a distinct lack of crampons made for a 'interesting' escape. On a positive note the poison ivy wasn't a significant obstacle.
Arise early, slam coffee with breakfast. Unclip shoes from harness in order to don same. Book it down the gully. Upon reaching the base of the Scenic Cruise, discover absence of climbing shoes. Embark on Plan B: move gear to base of Journey Home, fire WOS, and return with shoes. Upon descending, change plans again and rally back to plan A. Contemplate quitting coffee, or perhaps instituting regular dummy-check before leaving camp.
Just pulled off of Eighth Voyage, got lost up high...anyway. This "walk of shame" is full pump value! Make sure to have two 5s and 6s to carry out too...having jumars makes it a grade easier! Stop by and drink from the river as a bonus. A 3 am camp return is also a bonus. A must do for all canyon aficionados!
I wonder how many climbers have done this when they discovered they didn't have their climbing shoes when they reached the base. We reached the base of Scenic Cruise in the dark, in order to beat an approaching winter storm to the top. Somewhere on the descent, my climbing shoes came unclipped from my harness. After reaching the top of the second rap, we found them sitting on a rock. We decided to not press our luck and climb Midsummer's instead. The storm rolled in about 1pm and after our first beer. Major karma points were used up that day!