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Waldkopf
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Routes Sorted
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Action Directe 
Armstrong 
Feiste Fauste 

Waldkopf 


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Lat, Long: 49.6347, 11.6026 Map
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Administrators: MPuser10840, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: MPuser10840 on Jun 10, 2011

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Waldkopf

Description 

Small area which is home to 7 routes ranging from UIAA 9 to 11. Two classic routes are here: Action Direct and Slimline. If you're like most mortals and you can't climb at the level these climbs are, please stay off them to keep from polishing the beginning and making it even harder.


Getting There 

Drive to Neuhaus. From Neuhaus, continue East toward Königstein. When you reach the village of Krottensee, turn and head toward Maximiliansgrotte. 1.2 km after Maximiliansgrotte, you'll see a crossing of forest roads. Park 80m after that. Walk another 20m along the road and hang a left onto the path through the forest. After 60m you'll see a path on the left heading up to the rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Waldkopf:
Action Directe   5.14d     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Browse More Classics in Waldkopf

Featured Route For Waldkopf
Wolfgang Güllich on his masterpiece

Action Directe 5.14d  International : Europe : ... : Waldkopf
Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura. This route was the world's first 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Waldkopf Slideshow Add Photo
The forest road crossing that's mentioned in the Getting There description.

BETA PHOTO: The forest road crossing that's mentioned in the G...

Park somewhere around here and follow this trail into the woods.

BETA PHOTO: Park somewhere around here and follow this trail i...

Here's where you turn left to head uphill to the crag.

BETA PHOTO: Here's where you turn left to head uphill to the c...

You'll know you're on the right trail because through the trees you can see the tower that Armstrong is on.

BETA PHOTO: You'll know you're on the right trail because thro...

Hang a right here to go to Armstrong or continue up the hill and to the left to get to Action Directe.

BETA PHOTO: Hang a right here to go to Armstrong or continue u...

Continue heading up and left until you see the massively overhanging formation.

BETA PHOTO: Continue heading up and left until you see the mas...

This is the side you first see when you get here. Sachsenboulder (9) on the far right has no anchor.

BETA PHOTO: This is the side you first see when you get here. ...

Waldkopf. There is one more traversing route on here that I didn't include called Teddys Wampe. It's not very good and ties up 3 of the 5 routes here.

BETA PHOTO: Waldkopf. There is one more traversing route on he...

Armstrong

Armstrong