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Waldkopf

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Action Directe S 
Armstrong S 
Feiste Fauste S 

Waldkopf  


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Location: 49.6347, 11.6026 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,546
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Continue heading up and left until you see the mas...

Description 

Small area which is home to 7 routes ranging from UIAA 9 to 11. Two classic routes are here: Action Direct and Slimline. If you're like most mortals and you can't climb at the level these climbs are, please stay off them to keep from polishing the beginning and making it even harder.

Getting There 

Drive to Neuhaus. From Neuhaus, continue East toward Königstein. When you reach the village of Krottensee, turn and head toward Maximiliansgrotte. 1.2 km after Maximiliansgrotte, you'll see a crossing of forest roads. Park 80m after that. Walk another 20m along the road and hang a left onto the path through the forest. After 60m you'll see a path on the left heading up to the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 23.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Waldkopf
Wolfgang Güllich on his masterpiece

Action Directe 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c  Europe : Germany : ... : Waldkopf
Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura. This route was the world's first internationally recognized 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Waldkopf Slideshow Add Photo
Waldkopf
Waldkopf
The forest road crossing that's mentioned in the G...
BETA PHOTO: The forest road crossing that's mentioned in the G...
Waldkopf. There is one more traversing route on he...
BETA PHOTO: Waldkopf. There is one more traversing route on he...
Park somewhere around here and follow this trail i...
BETA PHOTO: Park somewhere around here and follow this trail i...
Hang a right here to go to Armstrong or continue u...
BETA PHOTO: Hang a right here to go to Armstrong or continue u...
Here's where you turn left to head uphill to the c...
BETA PHOTO: Here's where you turn left to head uphill to the c...
This is the side you first see when you get here. ...
BETA PHOTO: This is the side you first see when you get here. ...
You'll know you're on the right trail because thro...
BETA PHOTO: You'll know you're on the right trail because thro...
Armstrong
Armstrong

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