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Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
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Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Waldemar Guimaraes
Season: All year.
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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Andrew leading the delicate first crux.

Description 

This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.

It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo.


Location 

North face of Pao de Acucar. After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above.


Protection 

Bring 16 draws including many 24 inch slings. You can also bring a couple of .5- 2 inch pieces to fill in some of the gaps between bolts.



Photos of Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) Slideshow Add Photo
Not a bad view.
Not a bad view.
Andrew reaching the top of pitch six.
Andrew reaching the top of pitch six.
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