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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Bogosity (Link-up) T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Disputed, The T 
Dynamo Hum T 
El, The T 
Flying Squirrels T 
Great Chimney T 
Lonely, The T 
Pete's Farewell T 
PF Flyers T 
Raging Raven S 
Roaches on the Wall T 
Rock and Roll Star T 
Star Sailor T 
Wald-Calder Route T 

Wald-Calder Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Grant Calder and John Wald 1976
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Drake Pregnall on Sep 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Pitch 1:

Boulder up through the 7 foot tall phone booth (right side seems easier) to jugs and a short right rising flake (first gear). From here, traverse right for 70 feet along a good horizontal with some dirty feet. Build a belay below the right end of a low roof (good blocks to sit on). 5.9- PG

Pitch 2:

Climb straight up from the belay ledge using a vertical crack. Move right to another vertical crack and then back left to a pretty hollow flake (no gear). Climb the flake to its top below the final bulging headwall. Pull through the bulge and scramble up the slab to build a belay near where The El tops out. 5.9 PG

Location 

The route starts about 20 feet right of Roaches on the Wall where the Roaches Terrace gets grassy, narrow, and exposed. The phone booth feature is pretty obvious. Descent via the Great Chimney rappels.

Protection 

Each pitch has a short portion of poorly protected climbing. Other than those small bits, the climb takes great gear from micro size to 3 inches.


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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I found that I never used above a .75 on this route. Doubles in C3s and finger sized stuff would have been more useful in my opinion (especially for building the P1 belay).

The route is worthwhile if you're comfortable with the start (there isn't gear until well established above the roof). The traverse on P1 (which is the book crux) is in my opinion well protected (potentially for both leader and follower). P2 is worthwhile and much cleaner than P1. If more traffic hit this climb and P1 cleaned up a bit, this would be a solid 3 star route to avoid the crowds on the more moderate routes to the right.