|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Grant Calder and John Wald 1976|
|Submitted By:||Drake Pregnall on Sep 1, 2012|
|Comments on Wald-Calder Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I found that I never used above a .75 on this route. Doubles in C3s and finger sized stuff would have been more useful in my opinion (especially for building the P1 belay).
The route is worthwhile if you're comfortable with the start (there isn't gear until well established above the roof). The traverse on P1 (which is the book crux) is in my opinion well protected (potentially for both leader and follower). P2 is worthwhile and much cleaner than P1. If more traffic hit this climb and P1 cleaned up a bit, this would be a solid 3 star route to avoid the crowds on the more moderate routes to the right.
By Connor Myers
From: Burlington, VT
Jul 6, 2015
|Part of that flake on the second pitch is gone now, since I yarded on it like an idiot and broke the bottom clean off. Not much harder probably, but take caution moving past the rest of the flake.|