Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | ?? T. Bubb, C. Parks, 11/16/02 ?? |
Page Views: | 716 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 15, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The route is not described in the Eldorado Guidebook and may or may not be a FFA. Please correct the site if this route has been previously climbed.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet, passing a 12 foot juniper which tree grows up nearly against the wall. About 35' up you will see another conifer just right of an inset through a bulge/roof and just left and above two small right-facing dihedrals. Just further right is an inset below a blocky, L-shaped roof, which is "two squares deep" on the Right and "one square deep" on the left. Perhaps 2 meters further right is a roof with a "chunky" vertical crack above it (one good jam), and after another meter still further right is a pin driven in over the roof with a ratty grey sling dangling from it. (Daydream) This sling may not last much longer, so perhaps just look for an over-driven pin.
Climb up from the ground from directly below the roof with the chunky vertical crack (one jam) above it. Place some gear below the roof and then start through the roof on odd but good holds. As you pass the roof spy a single good hand jam and decide weather you want a solid Jam, or solid Protection. You choose to put in either your hand or a gold camalot (red or orange HB quad-cam). I chose to plave the cam. If you pro this move, use a sling so as not to bury the edge below it in rope and a biner- this will become the crux hold. Move through the small roof/overhang and continue up the wall straight above to the ledge and belay.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet, passing a 12 foot juniper which tree grows up nearly against the wall. About 35' up you will see another conifer just right of an inset through a bulge/roof and just left and above two small right-facing dihedrals. Just further right is an inset below a blocky, L-shaped roof, which is "two squares deep" on the Right and "one square deep" on the left. Perhaps 2 meters further right is a roof with a "chunky" vertical crack above it (one good jam), and after another meter still further right is a pin driven in over the roof with a ratty grey sling dangling from it. (Daydream) This sling may not last much longer, so perhaps just look for an over-driven pin.
Climb up from the ground from directly below the roof with the chunky vertical crack (one jam) above it. Place some gear below the roof and then start through the roof on odd but good holds. As you pass the roof spy a single good hand jam and decide weather you want a solid Jam, or solid Protection. You choose to put in either your hand or a gold camalot (red or orange HB quad-cam). I chose to plave the cam. If you pro this move, use a sling so as not to bury the edge below it in rope and a biner- this will become the crux hold. Move through the small roof/overhang and continue up the wall straight above to the ledge and belay.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Photos
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