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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Waiting Room 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 25, 2011
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Waiting Room (between the trees) with its obvious ...
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  • Description 

    This is a good climb in an area of the wall that is known for bad rock and less than classic climbs. The first 50' climbs somewhat suspect, lichen covered rock, but the upper finger and handcrack is as good as any in the canyon. Start on top of the block with a juniper tree growing out of it. Climb up and left to a concave groove on the arete that contains a thin crack. Head straight up aiming for the right of two right-facing corners above. There is a ledge here for an optional belay, but it is only about 50' up and it is best to continue up the crack in the corner for about 120' to a belay stance shared with Northumberland Crack. This crack is the best part of the route and has many nice finger locks and excellent gear. This is a great pitch to access Northumberland Crack without having to do its grungy first pitch.


    Location 

    Waiting room is located to the right of The Hot Spur and to the left of The Dull Men's Club. It starts on top of a large block with a juniper tree growing out of it which lies against the wall. If you stand back from the wall, you can see the upper crack from the trail.


    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack to a #4 Camalot. (You will want several #4s if continuing up Northumberland Crack).



    Photos of Waiting Room Slideshow Add Photo
    The route.
    BETA PHOTO: The route.
    At the start about 6' up.
    At the start about 6' up.
    Looking down the near classic section at the top.
    Looking down the near classic section at the top.
    Low on the first pitch.
    Low on the first pitch.
    Enjoying one sweet crack.
    Enjoying one sweet crack.
    The upper crack as seen from the trail.
    BETA PHOTO: The upper crack as seen from the trail.
    The top half of the Waiting Room.
    The top half of the Waiting Room.
    Comments on Waiting Room Add Comment
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    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Mar 26, 2011

    It's nice to have a #3 or #4 for the belay. There is a nice crack on the left wall, and the rest of the ledge is a shattered mess. A #2 or a large hex might fit as well... Just save something large for the belay.

    Also:
    In case you are not up for the Northumberland Crack finish, it is possible to escape to the left at the top of this route. Maybe all the way to the walkoff but at least over to the Hot Spur.