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Waimea
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Waimea 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Mallery, 1993
Page Views: 12,735
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Oct 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (138)
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Lee Gagnon on waimea on a nice fall day... he sent...

Description 

A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.

The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.


Location 

Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of Waimea Slideshow Add Photo
Jordi (Editor for Escalar (Spain's climbing mag)) pulling the crux move of this classic line.
Jordi (Editor for Escalar (Spain's climbing mag)) ...
Joe Kinder on Waimea during the Nor'easter 2010
Joe Kinder on Waimea during the Nor'easter 2010
a beautiful day on a beautiful route on a beautiful cliff...
a beautiful day on a beautiful route on a beautifu...
Lee Gagnon the man the myth the obsessed climber...
Lee Gagnon the man the myth the obsessed climber.....
A close up of the new move
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the new move
Sam Todzia on Waimea's rest jug.
Sam Todzia on Waimea's rest jug.
Nuria Anguita-Bates making the crux move
Nuria Anguita-Bates making the crux move
Nuria Anguita-Bates making one of the starting moves on this classic line.
Nuria Anguita-Bates making one of the starting mov...
Mike nearing the second bolt
Mike nearing the second bolt
A hold broke just above the second bolt, now its a big move up to the gaston
BETA PHOTO: A hold broke just above the second bolt, now its a...
Waimea dry and ice free on a lucky winter day.  Photo by Jay Knower
Waimea dry and ice free on a lucky winter day. Ph...
Overview shot of Waimea.
Overview shot of Waimea.
Nuria Anguita-Bates making a fun move out of the rest mid way on this climb.
Nuria Anguita-Bates making a fun move out of the r...
waimea in a thunderstorm...beautiful!
waimea in a thunderstorm...beautiful!
jakob...
jakob...
Charles-Alexandre Brouillard
Charles-Alexandre Brouillard
Comments on Waimea Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alli
From: New York, NY
Jul 19, 2009

My first outdoor lead! Waimea has a special place in my heart.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 12, 2009

i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this?

By James Otey
From: NH
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 13, 2009

Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :)

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 18, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion.

By hasan
From: portland,me
Apr 5, 2010

The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Absolutely outstanding route. Best 5.10 that I've done at Rumney. In fact, it ranks up there with the best 10's at any place I have ever climbed. Though it is a bit short, if you link into 'All the Way-A' it makes for a decently long 5.10. Either way, the movement and rock quality are stellar. This is a very reasonable lead for those looking to break into 5.10+.

By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

No doubt this is a very good route with a solid 3 stars from me. IMHO, Centerpiece, at a slightly sandbag grade of 10d, is better. Even better would be climbing Peer Pressure whole, without the rest about halfway up.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Agreed neoh. Other classics at this grade at rumney such as centerpiece and pp feel more difficult. But the movement on this one is tough to beat.