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Waimea 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 848
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Aug 14, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Yet another 3 pitch sport route on Ra. A long way from Oahu, this Waimea starts just right of Moving Zen. It's the 5th bolted line coming up the hill. The first pitch is the money pitch. The upper two pitches are kind of out of character in difficulty but make for a nice way to top out. The opening pitch is deceptive in two ways: First, the stone up high looks a little suspect, but it's not. The rock is actually excellent the whole way. Also, the pitch looks maybe vertical. It's not--you'll see.

Pitch 1: 5.12c, 14 bolts + 3 bolt anchor, 110'. Swim up a clean granite face with small dihedrals and aretes up to a break below a pegmatite band. Cross the band (.10) and enter into a big, sweeping wave. The crux (.12b/c) comes at bolt 10, followed by several radical moves through pretty steep terrain. You'll get a rest before exiting the wave, then ride it out to the anchor. The crux is height-dependent. 6'0" barely gets you through at middle 5.12. It's sure to feel easier if you're taller, and probably much harder if you're shorter.

P2: 5.10a, 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 70'. Head straight up the face to a fun headwall on solid stone. A short slab leads to the anchor on a large ledge.

P3: 5.9, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 80'. A decent pitch on good rock climbs through corners and bulges. Some lichen detracts just a bit from the nice position. Belay from 2 bolts and then skip up to the top.

Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.

Taken by itself, the 1st pitch is at least 3 stars. We're contemplating lowering the anchor so it can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope. As is, you'll need a 70m or two ropes to lower or rap. Also, it's not really possible to dog through the crux, and it's almost impossible for the person following to aid through it. So, if you're unsure, leave a couple long cheater slings on bolt #11 so the second can get up it.


Protection 

15 draws + anchors. A 70m rope is required to get off the 1st pitch.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 17, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Somebody needs to get chain on this guy. Mark is enough past his "30-somethings" that he could be sitting home toting the stogie and street talking the neighborhood kids, rather than slipping through 12+ like it was stroll around the park. Waimea looks like Waimea and climbs Mavericks on a bad day. Take the long board and some guns. P1 is the meat, and as Mark indiated, is much steeper than it appears. Dropping off from the anchor at the top of P1 leaves you 20 feet from the climbing at mid height. P1 is also mucho bold with lots of space between clips. Piece of beta: there is a poor rest before the stretcho-crux but it is well after turning the corner through the pegmatite - stand higher. P2 and P3 ticked in well below their imagined difficulty, hence the excess bolts. I had run them on jugs and once again picked them to come in a number grade harder. Perhaps sliding the jug plays with the mind (?), or the body position. I'll go with three stars for the overall continuity, excellent rock, and terrific movement in P1. The "d" comes because I doubt very much that anyone under 6 ft will get it for the same price as Ten Digit dialing. Once again, Kudos to T for making it all look so good. Waimea is hard, and it's cool.

By Phillip Morris
From: Flavor Country
Aug 20, 2004

does the start require a tow in??

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 20, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Not the start, just the crux. Until I can figure out the short-bold-guys way, I'm using a tow-through. Frankly, it should be sussable. The climbing is reasonable right up to the 10 feet or so of thin crux, it stays hard through the crux, and then drops back down as you get back on the feet. Hanging it all together involves staying cool to the rest before the crux, moving powerfully through to good hands, and then getting the chill back into your veins. Hot shots like Mark do it on their second try, but even we mortals should be able to link it up using a different, and inobvious sequence. If you like working out your own solution to a hard problem, Waimea really is worth solving. It looks so improbable but the climbing is so good. If you can dispense with the crimpy/cruxy stuff, the big muscle moves that follow are a kick.

By Mark Tarrant
Sep 7, 2005

The first pitch now has a lower anchor making it possible to lower off with a 60m rope. If you're planning to do the whole route, it's best to go up 20' higher to the original anchor to belay.

By CHRIS.T
From: Longmont, Co.
Jul 4, 2012

Pitch 1 is fantastic the entire way! The crux has a few technical thin moves on steep rock with some cool stemming, and the finish is pumpy and powerful. Long and beautiful. Super classic!
Don't miss it.