Wages of Skin 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Late Spring through Fall (or whenever snow keeps you away) |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on Jan 29, 2008 |
| |
Wages of Skin. Looks can be deceiving, no real off...
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Description Once you scramble up a 3rd class ramp, negotiate the menacing off-width above by, well, staying to the left and bypassing it altogether. After a few scrambly moves (5.9/5.10ish), step ACROSS the off-width to your right, then face climb excellent rock past a couple bolts, then turn the lip onto some edgy slab. Gain the crack--which is now on your left--then charge up a slammer handcrack till the crack abruptly angles right into a traversing finger crack (the crux) with nothing but glacial polish for feet. Fire the finger crack then finish the pitch with 15 feet of stellar hand-jamming.
Location Far right side of the Gong Show crag. This splitter "splits" the obvious polished face.
Protection Standard rack with some extra finger-sized pieces (handy for the crux). Also, there are a few bolts, so have some draws handy.
| Comments on Wages of Skin |
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 29, 2008
| I found this route to be quite challenging and varied: off-width, hand-crack, finger-crack, off-hands, slab, slightly overhanging face-climbing... You name it, it had it. It's the most aesthetic line at the Gong Show crag, in my opinion. Do it--you won't regret it. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 11, 2008
| Abandoning that horizontal crack and lurching (some may call it a dyno) for the slot above is reachy and tough! It's been years, somehow I suspect it's not any easier. |
By Max Joseph
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
| With two #5 camalots you can lead this very safely without clipping the bolts. The offwidth is a lot of fun - perfect hand/fist stacks - and goes at 5.10. Then you can voice your outrage towards the person who bolted this crack. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| Hammer me if you like, but I think the shorter your arms are the harder it is to get a jam on the crux. The dudes who climbed the route before me told me I would get a great hand jam to assist in pulling through. Um....no. I was desperately trying to pimp the rounded edge of that dogleg (oh the pump at 9200'!) like a common sport climber. (Ok, ok, so sport climbers would have had a way easier time with that than I did!)
At least I know the gear is good on the traverse and the fall of shame is clean, haaaa.
This route is awesome and is physical climbing from start to finish. |
By Joel Hickok
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| In response to Max Joseph's post above, while I am not outraged at all that this route has bolts, I would say that clipping your gear would probably be safer than continuing to trust those old bolts year after year. They should be upgraded to newer hardware at some point. I hope the local ASCA is able to get to that one.
Great route. |
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