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 ADVANCED
Temple of Sinawava
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Forbidden Corner 
IdiOdyssey T 
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Not So Secret Show, The T 
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Right Toilet Bowl Crack T 
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Unknown Left - AKA: Toilet Crack Left T 
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Wages of Sin 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4 [details]
FA: Dave Jones & Steve Chardon, Oct 1983
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: bsmoot on Nov 5, 2011

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Description 

Climbs the beautiful Forbidden Wall up discontinuous, thin crack systems to the top. The first pitch was originally rated A5 because it had deck potential (pre beaks). The 3rd pitch climbs the striking hand crack located just right of a small corner. There is a bivy ledge at pitch 6. This route is consistently difficult with some route finding.

This was likely the first A5 in Zion at the time. Some rurps had to be equalized on the first pitch. Chip Chase made an early solo ascent of this route.

Location 

Several hundred feet left of Forbidden corner. See topo at VC

Protection 

Wall rack with extra thin gear.


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By roxclamantis
Dec 20, 2011

My guess is that unless the first pitch got retro-drilled (which I think happened on the second, failed, attempt) it likely remains A5. Exiting the crack (beaks at best) one has to commit to a hook move. If you blow out of that you will likely zipper at least half of the crack down to the solitary bolt.

Easily the most singular and sublime of all the walls in upper Zion canyon. The position is magnificent, and the climbing is continuously difficult. The only downside is the last two grunge pitches.

Several 'famous' climbers have backed off of this route.