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BETA PHOTO: Blunderbuss and Wager Crack.
A stiff, short little climb that turns out to be a decent problem.
You wouldn't go here to do this climb but if you're looking for new things to do at the local area then this one fits the bill.
Named because first lead won 1 1/2 6 packs of beer of choice when I pulled the lead off. I believe I had to give up 1/2 a pack because I fell or hung and lowered. Yep, that was it, I hung, scoped out some holds and lowered back down.
I believe Jim had tried it and I was giving him grief for not firing up such a short POS so he bet me I couldn't do it.
If I remember correctly, this is a good one to sandbag your buddy on.
My notes say 5.11-, but then say hard lead, bad style.
Not the best memory here, but I think there might be a bit of an issue with getting good gear to keep you from hitting a ledge if you fall off the crux. I believe the crack is good enough but it dies out and then you have to do some face moves with a bit of a fall potential. Since I never thought falling at the Overlook was a good idea, too many broken up features, I've given this a PG13 so you have some forewarning. I just don't remember. Maybe it sows up with a TCU and all is well ? What, 25 years ago ! No wonder I can't remember.
Just to the right of Blunderbuss is a steep, thin, incipient crack that goes for 20-30 feet then turns into face moves.
Thin stuff and other gear for the upper stuff.
By Zach Harrison
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
This one's for all the sport climbers at the Overlook, you can count the number of jams on this route with your thumbs. Paul's comments are pretty accurate, even after 25 years. I didn't place anything larger then an Orange Metolius, but multiples of small nuts, micro cams and sliding nuts. The crux is low, with a ledge below, but the small gear seemed solid. Higher the climbing difficulty eases off but the gear is funky, specific and well spaced. A hidden gem on the right side which is dominated by junky rock. Exciting and excellent!
By Paul Davidson
Sep 8, 2014
30+ years for the probable 2nd ascent. Has to be stellar!
Actually, my recollection is right there with Zach's.
exciting and excellent (thin)