Waffle House 5.10d
| 761 page views
Good page? (2 likes)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Capps |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kevin Capps on Apr 25, 2011 |
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Stan, looking for some syrup on Waffel House.
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Description Climb up the ramp on the left to clip the first bolt. From here, walk up the ramp until you find a start that is to your liking! If you are under 5.8, it might be a little easier to start on the crimps about 4 feet to the left of the first bolt and traverse at an angle on crimps to the second bolt. Both ways are about equal, depending on your height. The first 30 feet of this route climb very nicely on crimps and sidepulls. You are rewarded with a 5.6 warm down for the last 15 feet to get to the top.
Location This is just left of Pete's Kitchen.
Protection 6 bolts & 2 bolts anchor.
Bill, about to leave the lower ramp on Waffle Hous...
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Leeanne on Waffle House. Photo Greg Parker.
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Leeanne on Waffle House. Photo Greg Parker.
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Erick on Waffle House. Photo Greg Parker.
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By Luke Childers
Apr 27, 2011
| Very fun and interesting face climbing. This one will clean up nice!! Thanks for the new routes, Kevin! |
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2011
| Luke, what can I say.... You are an inspiration to us all. Keep on keepin' on. This is a great route though, very nice face climbing. |
By Luke Childers
Apr 27, 2011
| Fantastic face climbing!! So much fun, my man!! |
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Aug 17, 2011
| I am hesitant to say this may be 11a, because I am not that great at rating, but this route has been very challenging for solid 5.10 climbers. Also, I am curious as to whether or not anyone has gotten on any of the routes on this wall besides the 5.8. Any thoughts anyone? |
By Erick Valler
From: flat midwest
Aug 21, 2011
| Kevin- got on this route this morning.... I think a 10c/d rating is accurate unless you are 5'10" or shorter, then making it off the ledge is a huge task, probably 11a. Fun route though either way. |
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Aug 21, 2011
| I agree, it has a very reachy move off the ledge. I'm 5.10" and I don't think it feels harder than 10c or d, but my girlfriend is 5.1" and she doesn't like that move, it may be a 5.11 for shorter people. |
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| Kevin: Letting you know that I was up there today enjoying the fruits of your labor. Did the 4 routes suitable for we who are not 5.12 material. I completely agree with the ape index effect on the rating for Waffle House. At 5'11", it took every mm of my reach to get off the ledge on the lower crux with a 10b move instead of an 11a move. Good work putting up these nice routes. Thanks, Dave Rogers. |
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b
| I understand trying to rate things like this when you're way stronger than them. I've been there, but after not climbing for three years, I can feel this grade better. This pitch is definitely harder than at least two of the 5.11 pitches on the Naked Edge. I called it 11b. Climbed it directly up the line of bolts.
Excellent sampling, regardless of the grade. |
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