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Wadsworth Boulevard S 
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Wadsworth Boulevard 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 3,097
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (164)
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Laura climbing up the first overhang of Wadsworth.

Description 

Start just right of Hot .. Beach, and climb through two small roofs on amazing features. This is a very fun laybacking outing, highly recommended. It is well-protected at the crux but very runout above near the anchor on easy terrain.

Protection 

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains. Sizeable runouts (20 feet) on 5.8 terrain at the top.


Photos of Wadsworth Boulevard Slideshow Add Photo
Jimmy F. stylin' the second roof, Wadsworth Blvd.
Jimmy F. stylin' the second roof, Wadsworth Blvd.
Pulling the main roof on Wadsworh Blvd, Shelf Road.
Pulling the main roof on Wadsworh Blvd, Shelf Road...
Cactus Cliff - Left (2). <br /> <br />Errata: Route 31 is Tits Up, Route 32 is Hot Beach.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Follow that red line painted on the rock, how can you miss it?
BETA PHOTO: Follow that red line painted on the rock, how can ...
Brian doing some nice stemming before the roof on Wadsworth Blvd.
Brian doing some nice stemming before the roof on ...
This is just before the first roof.
This is just before the first roof.
Pulling around the crux roof. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Pulling around the crux roof. Photo by Paul Rezuch...
Wadsworth Blvd., May 2008.
Wadsworth Blvd., May 2008.
This is just below the second roof, be sure to stretch before this one!!
This is just below the second roof, be sure to str...
In the slightly runout climbing of the upper part of the route. September 2011.
In the slightly runout climbing of the upper part ...

Comments on Wadsworth Boulevard Add Comment
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By Barrett Cooper
Jun 14, 2002

Runouts on the top were not as bad as I expected. It may be they added a bolt or two or that it just seems tougher after pulling the two ledges.
By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Nov 3, 2003

The last couple of bolts are a little runout compared to the closely-spaced bolts near the two lower roofs, but the climbing is fairly easy. However, these last bolts can be supplemented with finger-sized cams.
By Gent Grush
Apr 16, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route for any who are looking to improve there technique. the two roofs require good technique!! tons of fun for anyone compitent at the grade!! Enjoy!!
By Russell Oakley
Apr 16, 2005

Tons of fun, short cruxes, lots of rests. This has to be the easiest 10c at Shelf, considering I got up it no problem...

I thought Blackman's Burden, Christmas Tree, and Politically Incorrect were all way harder.

Good luck getting on it on a weekend.
By Clint Ballard
From: Greeley, CO
Nov 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The guidebook calls Wadsworth 10b.
By 303scott
Mar 4, 2010

There is quite a bit of loose rock on this route. I counted 4 loose blocks with Xs on them, which included the most obvious clipping holds for the bolt at the end of the runout section. Use caution, it would be a long ride....
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very beta-intense and cool crux moves.

My math might be a little fuzzy, but not sure how an 80 ft. route with 11 bolts is 'runout.' Also, you can get up and down this with a 50m no problem.
By Yenni
From: Louisville, KY
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Make sure to flip your rope out of the crack between the 8th and 9th bolts! Our rope got stuck there.
By Garrett R.
From: Colorado
Mar 12, 2013

Overchalked and polished... even by Shelf standards. Still a good climb, but it's taking a beating.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 2, 2013

A ton of fun! The roofs aren't too bad at all and is very well-protected on the lower half. As mentioned, the runouts on top follow considerably easier terrain (5.7/8), so don't worry. A must do.