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J. Howland climbing, Matt Hern speaking in tongues...
Outstanding pitch anywhere but all the more so in the ORG because fairly unusual -- 125 feet of mixed-sized crack climbing, though face-holds abound when/where you need them.
Descend on single rope rap. to Giveaway anchors, then another to ground.
Furthest to the right on Gorgeous Towers; starts with obvious crack.
Warming up on Wacked Scenario.
A nice series of photos by Tom H.
Fashion by....well, never mind
The crowd gathers
The part of the crowd not tethered to my rope leav...
As for me, I'm damn warm.
Hmmm, only half way the...
Omg, is that a figure 4?!?
No, it is a mantle in...
BETA PHOTO: Route overview
Although it looks like the route b...
BETA PHOTO: Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
|Comments on Wacked Scenario
From: Oakland CA
Jan 6, 2007
very fun bolted wide crack, that just keeps going for a really long way! one of my favorite routes in the gorge!
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 2, 2007
Years ago while out climbing I asked Marty Lewis about this (Whacked Scenario. Pretty much the old standard, "hey what's with this bolted crack, I know you and Kevin have gear...."
The reply went something like this. People hike in and out of the gorge every day for sport climbing and if they had left the line for gear it would never get done.
As much as I like gear routes and mixed gear/bolted routes I've found myself thinking about that conversation many times. With all the routes that are available in the gorge, I think that Marty is correct. The masses won't hump a rack down.
That's my story.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 17, 2010
Even if people hump a rack down into the Gorge (c'mon, a set of singles is not that heavy), no one will have humped down the proper gear you would need for this route anyway and thus still no one would climb it. 4's, 5's, and 6's + something(s) bigger to cover 7" would prolly be required!!
When I first arrived at the base, I looked at the bolts like, "What the?" but then as I was climbing it I was like, "This is fantastic!"
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 7, 2011
good route that keeps on giving all the way up.
Aug 10, 2011
So much fun! Huge holds and multiple ways of climbing this route make Wacked one of my favorite 10b routes ever. Don't like crack? Climb it using face holds. Don't like face? stick to crack all the way and get high on good climbing. Takes an entire 70m rope if you go straight up to top anchors.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Nov 15, 2011
This is really a sport climb? I think I just threw up in my mouth. What a sad site.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 30, 2011
It is a sport climb and a good one.
|By Sean H|
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 29, 2012
So much fun. You can complain all you want about the poor ethics of bolting a protectable line - OR you can just climb it and enjoy. Honestly it was pretty fun getting to do such a nice long pitch of mixed crack climbing without having to worry about bringing wide gear.
If it were elsewhere, I'd agree that it shouldn't be bolted - however, it's in the middle of a few thousand sport climbs, you've already got draws with you, so...when in rome, right?
|By marc farra|
Apr 6, 2013
Jeez people if you don't like the bolts hump the 50 pounds of rack you would need down and plug away. Otherwise stfu and clip the bolts.