Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Gorgeous Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Feet to Hell 
C'mon Knucko 
Dihedral Crack 
Enraged 
Giveaway 
Gorge and Purge 
Gorgeous 
Knucko's Pride of the North 
Nothing But Trouble 
Pippy the Zenhead 
Sea Cow 
The-Aretical 
Wacked Scenario 

Wacked Scenario 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lewis, Calder - 11/2000
Page Views: 2,424
Submitted By: Jonathan Howland on Nov 11, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The crowd gathers

Description 

Outstanding pitch anywhere but all the more so in the ORG because fairly unusual -- 125 feet of mixed-sized crack climbing, though face-holds abound when/where you need them.
Descend on single rope rap. to Giveaway anchors, then another to ground.


Location 

Furthest to the right on Gorgeous Towers; starts with obvious crack.


Protection 

14 bolts



Photos of Wacked Scenario Slideshow Add Photo
The part of the crowd not tethered to my rope leaves for sunnier viewing areas
The part of the crowd not tethered to my rope leav...
Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
BETA PHOTO: Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
Fashion by....well, never mind
Fashion by....well, never mind
Omg, is that a figure 4?!? <br /> <br /> <br />No, it is a mantle in disguise.
Omg, is that a figure 4?!?


No, it is a mantle in...
J. Howland climbing, Matt Hern speaking in tongues. <br />E Neff photo
J. Howland climbing, Matt Hern speaking in tongues...
As for me, I'm damn warm. <br /> <br />Hmmm, only half way there!
As for me, I'm damn warm.

Hmmm, only half way the...
A nice series of photos by Tom H.
A nice series of photos by Tom H.
Route overview <br /> <br />Although it looks like the route becomes loose and chossy up higher, this isn't really the case.  Steep climbing with bomber holds abound.
BETA PHOTO: Route overview

Although it looks like the route b...
Warming up on Wacked Scenario. <br /> <br />March 2010
Warming up on Wacked Scenario.

March 2010
Comments on Wacked Scenario Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 6, 2007

very fun bolted wide crack, that just keeps going for a really long way! one of my favorite routes in the gorge!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 2, 2007

Years ago while out climbing I asked Marty Lewis about this (Whacked Scenario. Pretty much the old standard, "hey what's with this bolted crack, I know you and Kevin have gear...."

The reply went something like this. People hike in and out of the gorge every day for sport climbing and if they had left the line for gear it would never get done.

As much as I like gear routes and mixed gear/bolted routes I've found myself thinking about that conversation many times. With all the routes that are available in the gorge, I think that Marty is correct. The masses won't hump a rack down.

That's my story.

~Susan

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 17, 2010

Even if people hump a rack down into the Gorge (c'mon, a set of singles is not that heavy), no one will have humped down the proper gear you would need for this route anyway and thus still no one would climb it. 4's, 5's, and 6's + something(s) bigger to cover 7" would prolly be required!!

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

good route that keeps on giving all the way up.

By Alexander
Aug 10, 2011

So much fun! Huge holds and multiple ways of climbing this route make Wacked one of my favorite 10b routes ever. Don't like crack? Climb it using face holds. Don't like face? stick to crack all the way and get high on good climbing. Takes an entire 70m rope if you go straight up to top anchors.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Nov 15, 2011

This is really a sport climb? I think I just threw up in my mouth. What a sad site.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 30, 2011

It is a sport climb and a good one.

By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 29, 2012

So much fun. You can complain all you want about the poor ethics of bolting a protectable line - OR you can just climb it and enjoy. Honestly it was pretty fun getting to do such a nice long pitch of mixed crack climbing without having to worry about bringing wide gear.

If it were elsewhere, I'd agree that it shouldn't be bolted - however, it's in the middle of a few thousand sport climbs, you've already got draws with you, so...when in rome, right?

By marc farra
Apr 6, 2013

Jeez people if you don't like the bolts hump the 50 pounds of rack you would need down and plug away. Otherwise stfu and clip the bolts.