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 ADVANCED
Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. T 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 
Bert's climb T 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  T 
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet S 
Bolted face Route E1 S 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure S 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy S 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route S 
E12 T 
E6 or White Lightning T,S 
E8 or Leading cause  T 
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. T 
Energizer E10 T 
giant dead tree corner, The T 
Great Circle Route, The T 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  T 
R&B T 
Rapper, The T 
Revelations or E11 T 
Spare Ribs T 
Variations to Bert's Climb  T 
W1  T 
W2 T 
W3 T 
W4 T 
W5 T 
W6 T 

W5 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

this climb has two starts. there is the start up a friction slab (5-6) just to the west of the beak buttress. or further west you can climb the inside corner facing west (5-7) up to the same belay stance. From this stance move up until you can gain crack though arch (5-9) onto slab and follow crack to another arch to semi hanging belay. Follow this arch west and up (5-7) to tree ledge belay. Climb up ledges and past trees to summit. The last arch has some nuisance brush growing out of it that the climber must maneuver through. I believe we encountered a piton in the arch near it's ending. I aided the crack first time I tried it and Ted Hammond freed it on a different day.

Location 

Just to the west and high up on the beak buttress via a dirt gully. Walk off.

Protection 

Trad rack.


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