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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The 
Bert's climb 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet 
Bolted face Route E1 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route 
E12 
E6 or White Lightning 
E8 or Leading cause  
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. 
Energizer E10 
giant dead tree corner, The 
Great Circle Route, The 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  
R&B 
Rapper, The 
Revelations or E11 
Spare Ribs 
Variations to Bert's Climb  
W1  
W2 
W3 
W4 
W5 
W6 

W4 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White and Ted Hammond, 1982 or 3
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009
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Description 

This climb starts at a crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. After the crack move into arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform to belay. You are now on the outside corner face of the east side of the dike. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face until you can exit left onto another platform. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off past a unclimbable ceiling. Friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling while the tree sways back and forth. After sustained friction slab is run up belay in tree ledges. Climb ledges and past trees to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on this first ascent.


Location 

Best to get to high ground just past the beak buttress and traverse west to the end of this traverse ledge. Above you visually noticeable will be the crescent crack. Other approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.


Protection 

trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.



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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Apr 27, 2010

Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now.