W4 5.8- PG13
| 192 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Bradley White and Ted Hammond, 1982 or 3 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | bradley white on Jul 22, 2009 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Description This climb starts at a crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. After the crack move into arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform to belay. You are now on the outside corner face of the east side of the dike. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face until you can exit left onto another platform. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off past a unclimbable ceiling. Friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling while the tree sways back and forth. After sustained friction slab is run up belay in tree ledges. Climb ledges and past trees to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on this first ascent.
Location Best to get to high ground just past the beak buttress and traverse west to the end of this traverse ledge. Above you visually noticeable will be the crescent crack. Other approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.
Protection trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.
By Tom Bowker From: somewhere in the USA Apr 27, 2010
| Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now. |
|