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 ADVANCED
Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. T 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 
Bert's climb T 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  T 
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet S 
Bolted face Route E1 S 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure S 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy S 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route S 
E12 T 
E6 or White Lightning T,S 
E8 or Leading cause  T 
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. T 
Energizer E10 T 
giant dead tree corner, The T 
Great Circle Route, The T 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  T 
R&B T 
Rapper, The T 
Revelations or E11 T 
Spare Ribs T 
Variations to Bert's Climb  T 
W1  T 
W2 T 
W3 T 
W4 T 
W5 T 
W6 T 

W1  

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unkown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This climb has two starts. You can either begin up the outside corner's face long crux (5-8-)(protected by two bolts, these bolts looked poorly 20+ years ago) and get stopper gear in higher up or go up hill east to enter above this face by a traverse onto the outside corner. Once on the outside corner continue up face short crux (5-8-) to reach horizontal tree ledge and belay. From the tree ledge climb the v-groove crack (5-5) and traverse left to end of tree ledge to belay. From this ledge move up and left through break in arch (5-6) to the summit. The V-groove tends to fill up with leaves and dirt unless someone has recently climbed it. It's easily cleared away while climbing. The last pitch at the top and is often damp. Pitch one especially when traversing into the face should be split into two pitches because of the rope drag.

Location 

There is a giant dike on the western side of the cliff. This outside corner is the western wall of the dike.

Protection 

Trad rack. Walk off.


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