|The Temple of Tao
P1. (5.11b) This is a sustained burl fest. One of the best crack climbs in the area outside of Lumpy or Vedauwoo. It takes a steep layback flake to an overhanging fist crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The fist crack turns into hands and a pumpy lieback before the grade eases off. The rock is awesome.
Start by climbing a fun 5.6 chimeny onto the top of a little, leaning block. You can also start by scrambling up from the left on easy fifth class to this point. Pull up into a slabby, left-facing corner that becomes the right-facing flake. A 5.10+ finger lock gains you the flake.
Climb up to a ledge around 80' or 90' I thing. I think #1 and 2 Camalot sizes will provide a decent belay.
P2. (5.9) Work your way up into the right-facing corner above. I like to move out right at a crack on the left as soon as the ange of the climb eases and belay from a tree just below the summit on the slab. A crack that fits a nice large nut will back up the tree.
As you approach the crag, you can't help but notice an intimidating steep crack line 30' left of a large, low angle, right-facing corner system on the east end of the crag.
Bring at least double of finger and hand sized. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 for the crux. A double rack from tips to fist will still have you committed on this beauty.
BETA PHOTO: The right-facing flake and corner system on the le...