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Vulgar Display of Power 

Vulgar Display of Power 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robert DeZonia
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: This shows Vulagar Display of Power as well as a b...

Description 

P1. (5.11b) This is a sustained burl fest. One of the best crack climbs in the area outside of Lumpy or Vedauwoo. It takes a steep layback flake to an overhanging fist crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The fist crack turns into hands and a pumpy lieback before the grade eases off. The rock is awesome.

Start by climbing a fun 5.6 chimeny onto the top of a little, leaning block. You can also start by scrambling up from the left on easy fifth class to this point. Pull up into a slabby, left-facing corner that becomes the right-facing flake. A 5.10+ finger lock gains you the flake.

Climb up to a ledge around 80' or 90' I thing. I think #1 and 2 Camalot sizes will provide a decent belay.

P2. (5.9) Work your way up into the right-facing corner above. I like to move out right at a crack on the left as soon as the ange of the climb eases and belay from a tree just below the summit on the slab. A crack that fits a nice large nut will back up the tree.


Location 

As you approach the crag, you can't help but notice an intimidating steep crack line 30' left of a large, low angle, right-facing corner system on the east end of the crag.


Protection 

Bring at least double of finger and hand sized. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 for the crux. A double rack from tips to fist will still have you committed on this beauty.



Photos of Vulgar Display of Power Slideshow Add Photo
The right-facing flake and corner system on the left is the line. Where it looks like the rope is coming out of the crack is where the difficulty eases off.
BETA PHOTO: The right-facing flake and corner system on the le...
Dana rules.
Dana rules.
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