Vulcans Don't Lie 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Season: | affct'd by closures |
| Submitted By: | Clint Locks on Aug 15, 2006 |
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Tony Bubb on pitch 3 of Perversion, showing the "V...
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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>> Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description "Vulcans Don't Lie" is truly more of a variation of Mickey Mouse Wall's classic 5.9 "Perversion" than a route in itself but, since it is a named climb in Rossiter's guide, I thought I'd add it to the site. Though Rossiter gave it a 10b, I found it to be short enough and positive enough to place it at .10a. I hope that's not obnoxious. Most of the info one would need for "Vulcans" can be found on the "Perversion" or "Captain Beyond" pages. Have fun!
Location "Vulcans" is the roof located directly above pitch 3 of "Perversion", and can be gracefully substituted for the final 5.6 section of that pitch. Rap from the saddle from a veritable rat's nest of webbing. 2 more raps will get you to your packs.
Protection The protection is reasonably good on this pitch, though there is a large very loose block in the middle of the roof in which pro (esp. a cam) would more than likely rip. Careful!
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