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Vice Grip 
Voyager One 

Voyager One 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pawel Szafruga
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Pawel Szafruga on Jul 15, 2013
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Pawel using the worse right hand pinch from the pr...

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Description 

The longest pitch on the wall. Climb Power of Silence until the second resting pod and then trend slightly left to the anchors of Vice Grip. There is a new bolt up and left from the pod that eliminates the need for long slings and minimizes rope drag. Stopping at the first anchors is about mid 5.12 (Power of Vice), and is not nearly as enjoyable as doing the full Power of Silence.

From the anchors of Vice Grip the best part of the pitch starts. Continuous bouldering for three bolts lands you at an okay stance to regroup before embarking into the final section of thin face climbing. Cool holds, memorable movement, a little spice and even a finishing mantle round off this expedition.


Location 

Start on Power of Silence.


Protection 

17 bolts to top anchors. There are 4 bolts between Vice Grip and top anchors.

70 meter rope recommended. A 60 meter rope will NOT get you down, although it is possible to stop at the Vice Grip anchors and lower twice.



Photos of Voyager One Slideshow Add Photo
Pawel using a heinous sloper pinch on the last hard move...
Pawel using a heinous sloper pinch on the last har...
Pawel reaching from a bad left hand pinch to a worse right hand pinch. He is above the anchors of vice grip.
Pawel reaching from a bad left hand pinch to a wor...
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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 5, 2013

PAWEL IS THE MAN