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 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

Vote for Your Mom 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Jason Klimek and Adam Wilson
Page Views: 1,326
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: 23 Vote for Your Mom 5.3

Description 

A short, low-angle, bolted route whose main redeeming feature is that it provides a different way to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the top of the Red Slab.

Mossy in a couple of spots, and positive edges the whole way.

The anchor is above a ledge on which you can traverse left to get to the base of Ed and Terry proper.


Location 

Starts to the right of the right-to-left-upward-sloping ramp that most people use to get to the base of the Ed and Terry wall from the area above the Red Slab.


Protection 

4 bolts to chains (as well as tied cord in March 2007). Left of the anchor about 10 feet and a bit lower there is a bolt that you can clip as you scoot along the ledge (itd be a bumpy, nasty fall from the ledge - we belayed each other from the anchor to the bolt).



Photos of Vote for Your Mom Slideshow Add Photo
Gwen at the anchors, March 13, 2007.
Gwen at the anchors, March 13, 2007.
Comments on Vote for Your Mom Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2012
By Lee Jensen
Mar 26, 2007
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

There is actually another bolt right at the foot of the route (a couple inches above the ground). I would love to hear from the party who put up route what they were thinking with this bolt. I can only guess that they put up this route to practice their bloting skills, or to anchor their belayer.

If the route continued up the pilar it would actually be fairly fun for the final 15 feet (probably about 5.6/5.7), but as it is the route is mostly useful to teach a beginner how to lead, or as a fun route for small children. However, the approach up Red Slab is much harder then this "route".

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 26, 2007

I've always assumed that such bottom bolts are put there so people could practice rope-solo leading. There are a few such bottom anchors in American Fork Canyon at Hard Rock.

(I added the bolt in the photo.)

By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Mar 20, 2008

A friend and I bolted this route on lead from hooks.
the bottom bolt is because my wife is half my weight, and being pulled up low angle slab sucks.
We didn't go to the top of the Pillar is because it shifted under my friends body weight.
First route I ever put up, mostly as an access thing. Do what you will.
(the route was called "vote for your mom" and was originally rated 5.3. Jason Klemick and Adam Wilson)

By Bret Crapo
From: Springville, UT
May 12, 2008

This route is rad! Thanks for the creative Ed and Terry aproach Adam.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Oct 24, 2008

I thought this route was surprisingly fun. Probably the best 5.3 I've done? I led it all on gear and didn't feel it was particularly runout or anything. I mean come on, it's 5.3... How much pro do you need? I also passed the anchors and continued up the big, right-arching crack that is visible in this pic. It was fun!

As of yesterday, there is one chain and another bolt without a chain on it.

See my comment on the Ed and Terry page for two more easy trad routes I did to the right of this one that have probably been done before but haven't been recorded.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Oct 24, 2008

"...and continued up the big, right-arching crack..."

You're pretty brave. There's not a lot holding that block up.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Oct 24, 2008

Well, I tried avoiding the big block as much as possible. I didn't place any gear in the crack and just held on to the not-block side. Wasn't bad.

By Bret Crapo
From: Springville, UT
Dec 1, 2008

If you climb this in flip flops, it becomes "A vote for carl's mom".

By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Dec 2, 2008

one has a responsibility to vote for carl's mom, if you is able.

By darrell hodges
Aug 9, 2009

I liked this. It was fun. A good way to get to Ed&Terry. You're going to be getting your rope out anyway. You might as well do it here.

By Carl Armstrong
From: Provo, UT
May 26, 2011

So, I finally get a Mountain Project account and find out that Bret and Adam have been making comments about my mom here. Of course, I've heard the same comments in person so nothing new there.

Anyways, Adam, you spelled Jason's last name wrong. Its 'Klimek' not 'Klimeck'. If someone could change that in the FA thing it would be cool.

By Tyson Taylor
Jun 8, 2011

I enjoyed this route as an access to the upper routes, safer then scrambling up the left side and why not get a warm up in?

By Jordan Harmer
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed this as an alternate approach to Ed and Terry. Surprisingly fun, actually. Would be a great first lead.