Vortex in a Can 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Tatum and John Burcham |
| Season: | fall to spring |
| Submitted By: | Aimee Rose on Apr 6, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Phototopo of Vortex in a Can.
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Description P1: Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it's going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you will find another bolt.
P2: Move over easy slab with bolts.
P3: The crux. Move left from the belay up a steep arete into a corner. Move right out of the corner over steep ground to clip a couple bolts. Then head right again and up. Finish back to the left over steep jugs to a chain anchor.
Location Hike up to Cathedral Rock to the notch where you can see an unusual volcanic plug (some say this is the vortex). Follow the trail over the notch and keeping to the left side of the rock. Head in between two sandstone formations and follow the rock heading south. Come around the formation to head to the west and start looking for bolts on the south-facing face.
Protection Chain or bolted anchors at the top of every pitch. Bolts and gear for the rack. Bring small TCUs or Aliens for the first pitch and up to a #3 Camalot for the rest.
Heather Hayes on a tricky section of pitch 1.
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The start of pitch 2 (I thought the mantle onto th...
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BETA PHOTO: Not to be alarmist, but I noted the spiderwebbing ...
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The view of the Cathedral Group summits from the t...
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| Comments on Vortex in a Can |
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 25, 2006
| Great route. A few things that might be useful:
1. Bring at least 2 blue Aliens for the crux pitch. I probably would have placed 3 or 4 if I'd had 'em.
2. You can get down with 1 60m rope. From the top of P2 a 60m rope barely gets you down with stretch.
3. The top of South Mesa is a really cool spot to be. It's worth topping out. You can solo the topout pitch at about 5.5 or stay roped up. There is an anchor at the top. |
By Dean Hoffman
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| Very, very fun climb, great winter route! l would recommend approaching through the notch by the mace and then skirting the sandstone around below the Dodger etc... As far as the climbing we had a blast! I don't know about blue aliens but on the third pitch I did use two 00 and 0 metolius. Watch for rope drag at the last roof. Also you could use #2 camalot near the top but really only need doubles up to #1 camalot. Have fun. |
By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2012
| Full Directions: From Sedona, head South on 89A, take a left onto 179 at the first roundabout. Take a right at Back O' Beyond rd (signed) after a couple of roundabouts. Go about a mile and park at the trail-head (you can't miss it). Pay the iron ranger for parking.
Hike up the Cathedral Spires Trail. You'll be following a line of tourists at most times. Make sure you head uphill toward the spires and don't get confused by the trails bisecting the route. Once at the Notch go left about 200' (you'll be on the other side of the spires looking at the volcanic plug) and hike up through another notch separating some spires. Head down on the other side and go right contouring the cliff (you'll be heading SE). There is a trail on the limestone ledge. When the ledge gets exposed, drop down onto the sandstone slab and continue all the way around the spires. You'll drop down in elevation prior to reaching the route.
Here is a GPS map of the approach. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Maps/EmbeddedMap.aspx?tripId=1514519>>> (note: we got a little turned around at the spires as you can see) |
By Ryan Z
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.10c
| The approach is pretty straight forward. Gear wasn't really an issue. I led P1 and P3. I had a single Red C3 #.1, Doubles from .3-.5, then singles from .75 - #4, and a set of nuts. Having the four was pretty nice after the tips section but not a necessity. Sweet climb! |
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