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BETA PHOTO: Just above the crux on the first pitch. The chock...
Short (60 feet) route...just down from the Bastille trail on upper west face...locate large V-slot with a huge chockstone that you can easily climb under. Climb the messy looking V-corner and just above the Chockstone turn small roof into steep V-slot (crux). Cruise this to the large and messy belay ledge.
Small cams and medium hexes.
|By Chris Fisher|
Jul 2, 2001
[Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 22, 2001
It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off.
|By Clint Locks|
May 29, 2003
I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch.
|By Bruce Berkowitz|
Aug 22, 2003
Agree with above. I thought this climb was highly overrated in both quality and difficulty. Theres only one remotely challanging move on the climb .
Jan 14, 2004
If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!