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Voodoo Pin sits between Peyronie’s and One-Eyed Cat walls, just north of Chester Rock. It is very easy to recognize; it has three tiers, the top block “pointing” to the left, and an obvious dike that starts in the central gully and heads up the right side of the wall. Voodoo Pin has two very nice moderate routes on the southeast face, each with their own anchor. The quality of rock is generally good but there are a few hollow flakes, and one very loose block in the middle of the dike.
Approach as for Peyronie’s Wall but scramble up to the left as soon as it is easy to do so.
2 Total Routes
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Guys and Dolls 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Voodoo Pin
Start in the gully, clip the first bolt and get on the face to the left. Work up to the horizontal and follow it to the left. The crux comes while transitioning from the horizontal to the middle face. Continue up past a second horizontal, work the upper face on its left side and finish at chain anchors. Although not sustained at grade, this route has several spicy sections and will keep you on your toes. Rappel to descend....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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