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Voodoo Pin sits between Peyronie’s and One-Eyed Cat walls, just north of Chester Rock. It is very easy to recognize; it has three tiers, the top block “pointing” to the left, and an obvious dike that starts in the central gully and heads up the right side of the wall. Voodoo Pin has two very nice moderate routes on the southeast face, each with their own anchor. The quality of rock is generally good but there are a few hollow flakes, and one very loose block in the middle of the dike.
Approach as for Peyronie’s Wall but scramble up to the left as soon as it is easy to do so.
2 Total Routes
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Lesbos in Love 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Voodoo Pin
Start in the gully and scramble to its end at the negative wall with the obvious dike above. The crux is an awkward move to get established on the headwall. Taller climbers will find this move quite easy. Follow the dike up the right side of the wall. A secondary crux is found transitioning from the dike to the upper wall. This can be done either to the right or the left of the bolt. Continue up the right side of the upper wall to chain anchors. Rappel to descend.Note: the prominent middl...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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