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Voodoo Garden

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Chester Rock 
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Voodoo Garden Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 5,594
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
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Lourdez nearing the top of Guys and Dolls.

Description 

Voodoo Garden is a new area north of the central pinnacles, mostly developed by Brad Singer and members of the Rim of the World Climbing Club in the summer of 2007, although there were a few pre-existing routes put up by Chris Miller. It is a collection of walls and large blocks, with several moderate to advanced sport routes, and some interesting cracks. At the top of the hill, Katrina Wall dominates the formation and is easily seen from the road approaching the north parking lot for the central pinnacles. Other walls of note are the east-facing One-Eyed Cat Wall which lies just to the southwest of Katrina Wall and the south-facing Peyronie's Wall.

Getting There 

To find the Voodoo Garden, walk back along the road that brought you to the north parking lot, about 1/4 of a mile. You will see Voodoo Garden on the hillside to your left, just after walking past the first hill on your left. Follow along the left (south) side of the stream bed and cross to the north as you get close to the rocks. Peyronie’s is the short wall straight ahead, Other formations are farther up the hill to the left and require some scrambling. Allow ten minutes to hike from the north parking lot.

Climbing Season

For the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles area.

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Voodoo Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Voodoo Garden:
Bourbon Street   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Katrina Wall
Iceman Cometh   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   One-Eyed Cat Wall
Mardi Gras   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Katrina Wall
Duct Tape and Candy   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Chester Rock
By Hook or Crook   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Peyronie's Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Voodoo Garden

Featured Route For Voodoo Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up in the wrong spot: The good hold is tw...

Duct Tape and Candy 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Chester Rock
This route features thin crimping and technical moves. It is sustained, although it gets slightly easier the higher you get. The rock quality could be better and some holds might change their shape if this route sees more traffic.Clip the first bolt from the big undercling, before you actually get on the wall. Getting situated on the wall is probably the crux. The holds are small and sharp. Once on the wall, get the second clip and pick the right sequence to get to slightly easier terrain about ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Voodoo Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock detail, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock detail, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Closet Crag, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Closet Crag, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Voodoo Garden Area, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Voodoo Garden Area, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Bourbon Street on Katrina Wall....
Nearing the top of Bourbon Street on Katrina Wall....
Rock Climbing Photo: Epitaph Block, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Epitaph Block, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the top of the Katrina Wall, Holcomb Va...
Climber at the top of the Katrina Wall, Holcomb Va...
Rock Climbing Photo: Voodoo Garden from just off the north parking lot ...
BETA PHOTO: Voodoo Garden from just off the north parking lot ...
Rock Climbing Photo: New route called "Epitaph" in the Big Be...
New route called "Epitaph" in the Big Be...
Rock Climbing Photo: Voodoo Garden, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Voodoo Garden, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles

Comments on Voodoo Garden Add Comment
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By Jeff Edge
Nov 17, 2014
There is a trad route on a boulder all by itself that is more North than the Katrina wall, thought it felt about 10d. It starts low in an easy handcrack (optional), moves to a ledge then goes up a finger/hand traverse to hands/jugs out/around a bulge. Anchors look shiny and new, anybody got info?

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