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Voodoo Garden

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Chester Rock 
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Voodoo Garden  


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Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 18,630
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
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Rock detail, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

Voodoo Garden is a new area north of the central pinnacles, mostly developed by Brad Singer and members of the Rim of the World Climbing Club in the summer of 2007, although there were a few pre-existing routes put up by Chris Miller. It is a collection of walls and large blocks, with several moderate to advanced sport routes, and some interesting cracks. At the top of the hill, Katrina Wall dominates the formation and is easily seen from the road approaching the north parking lot for the central pinnacles. Other walls of note are the east-facing One-Eyed Cat Wall which lies just to the southwest of Katrina Wall and the south-facing Peyronie's Wall.

Getting There 

To find the Voodoo Garden, walk back along the road that brought you to the north parking lot, about 1/4 of a mile. You will see Voodoo Garden on the hillside to your left, just after walking past the first hill on your left. Follow along the left (south) side of the stream bed and cross to the north as you get close to the rocks. Peyronie’s is the short wall straight ahead, Other formations are farther up the hill to the left and require some scrambling. Allow ten minutes to hike from the north parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Voodoo Garden:
Had a Lean on My Sole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   One-Eyed Cat Wall
Bourbon Street   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Katrina Wall
One-Eyed Cat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   One-Eyed Cat Wall
Iceman Cometh   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   One-Eyed Cat Wall
Mardi Gras   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Katrina Wall
Duct Tape and Candy   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Chester Rock
By Hook or Crook   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Peyronie's Wall
Browse More Classics in Voodoo Garden

Featured Route For Voodoo Garden
Chalking up in the wrong spot: The good hold is tw...

Duct Tape and Candy 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Chester Rock
This route features thin crimping and technical moves. It is sustained, although it gets slightly easier the higher you get. The rock quality could be better and some holds might change their shape if this route sees more traffic.Clip the first bolt from the big undercling, before you actually get on the wall. Getting situated on the wall is probably the crux. The holds are small and sharp. Once on the wall, get the second clip and pick the right sequence to get to slightly easier terrain about ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Voodoo Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Lourdez nearing the top of Guys and Dolls.
Lourdez nearing the top of Guys and Dolls.
Epitaph Block, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Epitaph Block, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Voodoo Garden from just off the north parking lot ...
BETA PHOTO: Voodoo Garden from just off the north parking lot ...
New route called "Epitaph" in the Big Be...
New route called "Epitaph" in the Big Be...
Closet Crag, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Closet Crag, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Voodoo Garden, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Voodoo Garden, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Nearing the top of Bourbon Street on Katrina Wall....
Nearing the top of Bourbon Street on Katrina Wall....
Climber at the top of the Katrina Wall, Holcomb Va...
Climber at the top of the Katrina Wall, Holcomb Va...

Comments on Voodoo Garden Add Comment
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By Jeff Edge
Nov 17, 2014
There is a trad route on a boulder all by itself that is more North than the Katrina wall, thought it felt about 10d. It starts low in an easy handcrack (optional), moves to a ledge then goes up a finger/hand traverse to hands/jugs out/around a bulge. Anchors look shiny and new, anybody got info?