Voodoo Doll  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II FA:  Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo Submitted By:  Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Larry DeAngelo starting the first pitch, on the FR...

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Description 

Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.

Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.

Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.

Protection 

Standard rack; a very thin wire w/screamer might be handy

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Julia Snihur follows the second pitch on the FRA o...