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Lotta Balls Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Run T 
Black Magic T 
Borderline T 
Bruja's Brew T 
Cougar Boy T 
Dodgeball T 
Freaker's Ball T 
Kick in the Balls T 
Lost Marbles T 
Lotta Balls T 
Lotta Brews T 
Power to Waste T 
Trihardral 
Voodoo Doll T 

Voodoo Doll 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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Larry DeAngelo starting the first pitch, on the FR...

Description 

Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.

Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.

Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.


Protection 

Standard rack; a very thin wire w/screamer might be handy



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Julia Snihur follows the second pitch on the FRA of Voodoo Doll.
Julia Snihur follows the second pitch on the FRA o...
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