|669 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II|
|FA: ||Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo|
|Submitted By: ||Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005|
Larry DeAngelo starting the first pitch, on the FR...
Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.
Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.
Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.
Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
Standard rack; a very thin wire w/screamer might be handy
Julia Snihur follows the second pitch on the FRA o...