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Voodoo Child 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: MM, DB '71
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,794
Submitted By: Costas on Jul 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Leading out past the first bolt

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Excellent pitch of slab climbing! Thin moves angling up and left past three bolts. Crux is well protected, but 5.9 runout above is not. Belay on small ledge with three bolt anchor.


    This pitch starts in the gully above Obituary Column but below the tree.


    All Bolts.

    Photos of Voodoo Child Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: i think this is just above the crux
    i think this is just above the crux
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe on Voodoo Child
    Joe on Voodoo Child
    Rock Climbing Photo: view from the top of the pitch-cindy is at the obi...
    view from the top of the pitch-cindy is at the obi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe at the second bolt
    Joe at the second bolt

    Comments on Voodoo Child Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 18, 2010
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    This is actually a four-pitch route starting from the left end of Pine Tree ledge. Pitches 1 & 2 as shown in SQ II are fun (particularly the arching 5.9 corner), mildly spicy, and can be combined. They are not as good as Quick Death, but worth doing if you've already done that route. A light rack to a #2 friend is sufficient for these pitches. After the crux, the last pitch heads slightly up and right past several bolts, finishing with a fun, albeit contrived roof to the chickenheads.

    3 stars for the full original line and 4 for the Chiboni/Quick Death/VC linkup. The crux slab pitch is beautiful! The map shows a low 5.10 variation which I investigated but couldn't figure out how to initiate. I can't imagine how this climb would have felt (well, terrifying maybe) in "Royal Robbins blue suede boots."

    • edit: Went back and led VC again, this time figured out how to do the low 5.10 variation. You have to go *real* low--clip the crux bolt, then downclimb straight down for several moves, then tiptoe left on a little dike until it's possible to move back up. I didn't think it was nearly as good as going up and left.
    By Clay Mansfield
    Aug 2, 2011

    The fact that this pitch was put up in blue suede boots is both mind-boggling and humbling. Beautiful slab.
    By dancesatmoonrise
    Dec 21, 2012

    Interesting that it's been bumped up to 10d/11a. I used to love this route. A little story-telling here...

    Roughly 1979. I was in the Summit Hut inquiring about a partner for the weekend. Don't recall the fellow's name, but supposedly a very strong climber, but he hadn't been climbing in a while; Jim gave me his number. Well, I called the guy and we were on. I was the young buck, the upstart, the newbie. Flash forward to Saturday.

    We're on the crux pitch. I'm trying to lead this thing. Yes, must have been in my old RR's. The more experienced fellow was actually scared, and wasn't really into it. I took a fall at the crux. Cursed a little, and got back on. Took the same fall at the same place. Got back on. Hit it a third time. This time, I went flying for a 30 foot whipper. I knew he let a lot of line through. This pissed me off. I reminded him in no uncertain terms that he signed on to climb together, and I planned on getting this route.

    Well, I went up one more time. I was afraid the guy would actually drop me. Fortunately, this provided the necessary impetus to clean the crux, which I did, and then brought him up.

    A fabulous route that I went back to climb several times after that, with regular partners.

    Never did climb with that guy again. But it was my first big whipper. Oh, Lord... youth and fearlessness. Glad to be still alive and climbing.
    By Alex Kirkpatrick
    Aug 19, 2013
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

    I disagree that the crux is well protected. I found myself doing what I thought were 11a moves 15-20 ft above the bolt. I could have been in the wrong place, could have bungled the beta, or some sand could have fallen out my you-know-where and gotten the footholds dusty. Just make sure you're a solid slab climber or have solid ankles before going for this. Once again, opinions only.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 20, 2013
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Hey Alex, I wonder if you took the rightmost option on the topo--up and a bit right from the bolt? I remember that looked like no man's land. I have done this climb several times and there definitely shouldn't be any 5.11 15-20 feet out if done "normally" ie the middle option, which moves up and left. Maybe 5-10 feet out at most.

    Just noticed dancesatmoonrise's comment and fun little story--if this was bumped up it happened a long time ago, as it's rated 5.11 in Steiger's guide published almost 30 years ago. Whatever it is, it's great!
    By jbak
    Aug 20, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Alex, you musta been off route a bit.

    Historical note.... originally rated 5.10 in the old Rich Thompson/Hut guide. Dave Baker hand-drew a "+" in my copy. And then Steiger said 11a.
    By Paul Davidson
    Aug 30, 2013

    Yeah, JS just ruined the mystique of it all with that...

    But it was only 5.10 back then because they were using Blue RRs.
    By Dj telle
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    1 day ago
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Awesome pitch. Not as hard as Bmw imo since its less sustained. However, I was lucky to have clouds when i did VC.

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