Voodoo Child 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | John Long and Eric Erickson, 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Darrell Hensel on Feb 12, 2009 |
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Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...
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Description This is a much better direct start to Hesitation than is Hesitation Direct as it involves more good climbing. Climb to the second bolt on Hesitation Direct. At this point diagonal up and left (11b) to a bolt, then up easier climbing to a 4th and final bolt. Easy runout climbing above the 4th bolt eventually joins Hesitation a short distance below it's belay.
This route was rated 10d for many years, and the climbing is still about the same. Not sure when/why the rating changed. Note that there are 4 bolts, the latest guide only shows 3.
Location One pitch route starting on No Go Ledge. Same start as Hesitation Direct.
Protection 4 bolts and some optional small gear for the crack after joining Hesitation.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 5, 2009
| I was going to say, I don't remember this route feeling anything at all like .11b, especially Suicide .11b, but then I last did this some time back and little stuff could have worn off, etc. |
By Darrell Hensel
Aug 5, 2009
| Seems like I've been getting in trouble with the posted ratings lately. See what happens when you post a rating that is the one straight out of the latest/current guide?
As a rule of thumb, I decided to post ratings on the routes I entered that were the same as those in the latest guide. Some of that may be related to having been accused of sandbagging at Suicide in the past.
Originally this route was called 10d. I did it again recently and little, if anything, has changed. |
By Murf
Aug 5, 2009
| The '93 guide had identical rating/bolt count as the 2001 guidebook. |
By Darrell Hensel
Aug 6, 2009
| I didn't remember that it was also off in the '93 guide. Guess it's been off for quite awhile now. (compare it to Disco Jesus which is also 11b and there's obviously a discrepancy) |
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 6, 2009
| The 1985 guidebook shows 4 bolts for the route, rates it 5.11b, and has the FA date wrong (1975). What's really odd is the route Hesitation Direct isn't even in the guidebook - it looks like the info for the two routes were merged into one. |
By Souljah
Jun 16, 2011
| The first time I led this route I climbed up a couple moves from the crux bolt before trending left , maybe 11b-ish. Second time I trended left directly off the bolt , felt 10d/11a. Dunno , maybe the rating discrepancy is related to route finding ? |
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