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Wizard of Air 

Voodoo Child 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Bridgers, Peter Prandoni
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 1,532
Submitted By: Mick S on Jun 26, 2008
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Patrick leads the third pitch.

Description 

A classic Sandia testpiece. Historically it has been given a 5.12a rating, but it is likely .11d.

1. Two options. The original start climbs the left side of a pillar (5.8) to the arete just left of Mountain Momma. The other option is to start on MM, but after clipping the 2nd bolt step left to a thin crack (5.10) and climb the right side of the pillar. This variation has better climbing, but the start of the crack is somewhat runout. Belay on top of the pillar at a two-bolt anchor.

2. Some consider the start of this pitch to be the physical crux of the route. Clip a bolt and crank hard face moves (.11d) to another bolt. Work right to the arete, clip a pin, and rest at a stance below a thin, shallow corner. Lieback the desperate right-facing dihedral (5.11d) to a small roof. Micro cams/nuts for pro, go for it, they will hold falls. Undercling left, then work back right to the arete (beware of rope drag). Follow an easy crack to the awesome belay ledge that is the top of the 2nd pitch of MM.

3. A spectacular pitch. Originally rated 5.12a, the climbing is actually not that hard, but it is airy and physical for a full value experience. Charge up and slightly left from the belay, then work right into a left-facing corner. Power up the exposed, overhanging dihedral (5.11b/c) to a thin crack. Fire the excellent, right-facing corner above to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Outstanding!

From here, climb the 4th pitch of Mountain Momma, and finish on it.


Location 

Start below the large roof in the center of the face, just left of the arete that separates Voodoo Child and Mountain Momma.


Protection 

PRO to 2 inches, including micro cams/nuts.



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Patrick pulls through the crux on the second pitch of Voodoo Child.
Patrick pulls through the crux on the second pitch...
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