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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Route Voie Frison-Roche on Brevent in ...
This route is a true classic in the Aiguille Rouges. It maintains a fairly consistently difficulty throughout. The 4th and 5th pitches are real beauties with fantastic cracks somewhat anomalous for the Aiguilles Rouges.
Pitch 1 (5.10a): The first pitch moves from a bolt on the face at the end of the approach path. From here, the climb move up the pillar and follows the bolt line. One or two difficult moves lead to a grassy ledge at the end of which is a belay before the next vertical section.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Go up straight and then traverse right until you reach the belay ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.9): This short pitch goes up a broken but juggy crack system with somewhat loose holds.
Climbing Pitch 3 on Voie Frison-Roche
Pitch 4 (5.10b): Go up the bolt line on a slabby face until you reach a 10m vertical crack. Pull through this crack, the crux, and belay at the top.
Climbing the Crux on Pitch 4 of Voie Frison-Roche.
Pitch 5 (4th class): From the belay go to the left and then right until you reach the obvious dihedral with a big crack in the center of it.
Pitch 6 (5.9): Climb up the crack in the center of the dihedral pulling through a few difficult sections to reach the belay at the top.
The last pitch of the route Voie Frison-Roche
The easiest way to reach the route is to take the Telepherique to Planpraz and then to Brevent. From here follow the main trail north. At the col continue east (along the ski piste) toward Chamonix. At the second switchback leave the trail and follow a trail of cairns to the trending toward the rock face. At the end of the trail, you'll see a bolt at the base.
From the top, you can walk to the telepherique by going left along the top of the cliff. You can take the telepherique down back to Chamonix. Alternatively you can hike to Planpraz and from there to Chamonix.
Very well bolted.
The following guidebooks have descriptions of this route (and typically many others in the region).
Les Aiguilles Rouges Volume 1 (Michel Piola)
Plasir West (Jürg von Känel)
Escalades Choisies: Mont-Blanc, Aiguilles Rouges (Glenant)
Les Aiguilles Rouges (Thomas Dulac and Godefroy Perroux)
By Jordan K
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun climb with a couple of fantastic pitches of crack climbing (P4 & P6). The rest was good but not outstanding in my mind. The route wanders a bit as it traverses and sometimes it was hard to spot the next bolt as they seemed to blend perfectly with the color of the rock (middle of P4 if I remember correctly). The route is well-bolted, but not nearly as closely spaced as its neighbor, Crakoukass, which is over-bolted frankly. The final belay at the summit had only one bolt, with the other one missing a hanger. I was able to rig something off a large nearby boulder though.
Fantastic views of the valley and Mont Blanc across the way.
When we arrived (around noon), there were 6+ parties on the route above us and we waited some 2-3 hours for the traffic jam to clear before being able to climb (late July '15). I don't know if this is typical or not, but it was definitely sub-optimal. We barely made it to the top in time for the last cablecar down! There were a couple of other routes nearby (to climber's right) that other parties were climbing while we waited, but I have no beta/rating -- although I believe they were somewhat harder than Frison-Roche.
Two first-evers for me: I saw a BASE jumper swoosh by overhead while climbing this route, plus I was passed by a free-soloist... I guess that's Chamonix for you!