Void Where Prohibited 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Romano and Rezucha, and possibly "a climber from New Hampshire", 1975 |
| Submitted By: | JSH on Jun 27, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void. It may ...
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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route, also known as the "Left Void", is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.
Location The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Outsiders block, almost at the end of the Nears.
Protection Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.
| Comments on Void Where Prohibited |
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By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| Hmm. It does look easy. I am 5.9 and it is 5.11+ . For 5.11 (height) it is 5.11- or easier. Did it make sense? |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2009
| Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person. |
By TradByron
Oct 3, 2009
| It totally look easy, and it absolutely is not (just like it says)! Nice moves, though--give it a go! |
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