Void Where Prohibited
||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Romano and Rezucha, and possibly "a climber from New Hampshire", 1975|
|Page Views: ||1,051|
|Submitted By: ||JSH on Jun 27, 2009|
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|A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>|
This route, also known as the "Left Void" (Avoid where Prohibited in the latest guide), is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.
The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Void block, almost at the end of the Nears.
Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void. It may ...
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hmm. It does look easy. I am 5.9 and it is 5.11+ . For 5.11 (height) it is 5.11- or easier. Did it make sense?
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 7, 2009
Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person.
Oct 3, 2009
It totally look easy, and it absolutely is not (just like it says)! Nice moves, though--give it a go!