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d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Void Where Inhibited 
Void Where Prohibited 
Whatever 

Void Where Prohibited 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Romano and Rezucha, and possibly "a climber from New Hampshire", 1975
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: JSH on Jun 27, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void. It may ...
A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route, also known as the "Left Void", is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.


Location 

The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Void block, almost at the end of the Nears.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.



Photos of Void Where Prohibited Slideshow Add Photo
entering the crux
entering the crux
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By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Hmm. It does look easy. I am 5.9 and it is 5.11+ . For 5.11 (height) it is 5.11- or easier. Did it make sense?

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 7, 2009

Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person.

By TradByron
Oct 3, 2009

It totally look easy, and it absolutely is not (just like it says)! Nice moves, though--give it a go!