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 ADVANCED
d. Harvest Moon to the End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across From the Fruitstand T 
Akidlleati vytoowouldn'tyou T 
D.S.B T 
Eowyn T 
Far from the Madding Crowd T 
Fat and Flabby T,TR 
Fossil Fools T 
Ground Control T 
Hang Ten T 
Harvest Moon T,TR 
Hold the Mayo T 
I'm OK, You're OK  T 
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 
Keystone Kop T 
King of P T 
Lean and Mean T 
Like a Box of Chocolates T 
Mac-Reppy T 
Main Line T 
Near Side of Far, The T 
Outsiders T 
Positively 4th Street T 
Punch and Judy T 
R2-OK? T 
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 
Scrambled Legs T,TR 
Seniors in Motion T 
Shadow Nose, The T 
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 
Short and Sassy T 
Spinal Exam T 
Spinal Traction 
Strange Customs T,TR 
Swells Good T 
Up in Arms T 
Void Where Inhibited T 
Void Where Prohibited T 
Whatever T 

Void Where Prohibited 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Romano and Rezucha, and possibly "a climber from New Hampshire", 1975
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: JSH on Jun 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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entering the crux

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route, also known as the "Left Void" (Avoid where Prohibited in the latest guide), is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.

Location 

The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Void block, almost at the end of the Nears.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.


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Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void.  It may ...
BETA PHOTO: Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void. It may ...

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By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hmm. It does look easy. I am 5.9 and it is 5.11+ . For 5.11 (height) it is 5.11- or easier. Did it make sense?
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 7, 2009

Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person.
By TradByron
Oct 3, 2009

It totally look easy, and it absolutely is not (just like it says)! Nice moves, though--give it a go!