Mountain Project: Climbing Zion National Park

Voice from the Dust is another of those obscure, yet good, long free lines in Zion. It seems that every other pitch on this thing is great. That also means that every other pitch is not so great. There is a good topo at the visitor center.

Here's a brief description:

P1 (5.8) Start in a short chimney with some large chockstones to the right of the large huecos. You can spot these huecos from the road. Climb the chimney then traverse left in the monstrous huecos. There is one bolt at the start of the traverse and one bolt next to a crack for the anchor (finger-size pieces for belay).

P2 (5.11a) This is a gem. Climb out the left side of the large hueco via a sweet splitter crack that eats red Camalots. Belay at two bolts in an awkward chimney.

P3 (5.11a) An initial hard section gives way to enjoyable hand jamming. The pitch ends with a somewhat awkward offidth before reaching a great belay ledge with two bolts.

P4 (5.11b/c) The crux pitch is mostly bolt-protected (they might have all been drilled angles; I can't remember). Climb the face, clipping bolts/angles and placing a couple of pieces to the huge Sanctuary ledge.

P5 (5.10a) Move your stuff to the base of the upper headwall. Climb a wide crack (bring an old #5 Camalot or a new #6) formed by a flake, traverse right with one bolt and then up a great hands to thin-hands crack. Stop and belay with gear at a small alcove where the crack splits into to two. This pitch is long, approximately 50 meters or more.

P6 (5.10b) This is one of the not-so-good pitches. Climb up left through a big chimney to a fragile ledge. From here you can belay at a tree with slings or it seems better to continue up and left to the loose gully where you can belay with gear.

P7 (5.8) This pitch is bad and then good. Climb carefully up the loose Book of the Dead on the left side of the gully. Then, climb the classic Book of Life, a great corner at about 60 degrees vertical. Belay from gear at the ledge.

P8 (5.7) Traverse right on easy terrain to the top of a ledge where you can see some rappel bolts down and to the right. Instead of going there, go up and left and belay on top of a loose block with a bolt and a fixed pin.

From there, third class a couple hundred feet to the top and enjoy the view.

Enjoy!

Protection

Standard desert rack with multiples in finger- to hand-size. Bring a big piece for the wide start on pitch 5; although manageable, it is unprotectable without it. See the topo for a detailed gear list.

Location

The route starts on a heavily huecoed face on the far south end of the east face. The first pitch starts in a short chimney to the right of some large huecos and roofs. See beta photo.

Descent

Rappel the route, skipping the belay at the top of pitch 5. You can rappel from the top of pitch two to the ground.

Comments on Voice from the Dust

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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 8, 2007

I'm not sure what to give it for stars. Just depends on what kind of desert, sand-in-your-eye routes you like. If people are giving Iron Messiah 3-1/2 stars then this probably deserves 3. I thought it was better than Equinox and the NE Buttress of Angels Landing if that says anything.

By bsmoot
Mar 29, 2008

Dave Jones & Mark Austin climbed the first 3 pitches back in the late 80's.

"From here you can belay at a tree with slings or it seems better to continue up and left to the loose gully where you can belay with gear."

The gear belay would be better as the tree belay was kind of cramped. It would even be good to put a bolted rap station in there...we wanted to but it was getting dark. A 60m rap would just make it to the big midway ledge.

By S. O.
From: logan,ut
May 19, 2008

Pitch 2 eats green and purple camalots (.75 and .5) and is still reasonably doable due to many face holds

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2009

The first four pitches are really good. The first pitch is easy, wild and unique, the 2nd and 3rd just beautiful splitters with good feet outside the crack, and the sport 4th pitch is fun because there isn't much chalk. Just doing these four is worthwhile, whether you top out or not. Bring triples in .5-2 camalots.

By notmyname
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 31, 2009

Just did the 1st four pitches. We got blown off the climb and were happy to get out ropes back. If it was awesome doing it with a leaf blower going off in your ear, then it must be really fun. I'll have to go back and finish it.

One reccomendation: tape your hands for the 2nd pitch and 3x #.5-#2 camalots are choice. I found the sport pitch no harder than 10d. It doesn't look like it, but a gold camalot helps protect the start.

By hanshan
From: Canada Mofuga
Apr 6, 2011

From the book of the dead belay you can head straight up the splitter wide crack in the corner above you. It is sandy and you'll need several #4s but its a nice wide pitch and deposits you directly to the next anchor. A good climb overall.

By Matty Van
From: WA
Feb 29, 2012

just my 2 cents: the 10b sixth pitch is totally Rad. Cool chimney moves and then traverse out a roof on fists! c'mon! the rest of the climb is great too. The book of death pitch is not all that bad, just give it a good test before yarding on it.

By Shiho
Feb 5, 2013

If you are short like me (5'1"), you may be happy to have a stick ready for the bolt on pitch 5.

By Jay Brown
Apr 24, 2013

Another good route!
Rack is really:
Dbles to .4
3 each .75, 1, 2's
1-#3
Maybe 1-#4 but nothing big. I chose a more direct chimney start to pitch 5
Nuts maybe but no tiny pieces

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Voice from the Dust

5.11b/c

Description

Protection

Location

Descent